Gabriela Hearst let loose with her show on Tuesday afternoon, bringing the Resistance National Revival Chorus onto the runway to serenade her models and the crowd with some gospel “Joy,” which even had the jaded fashion crowd clapping along.
The designer can be a bit cerebral when she gets wonky about sustainability, or her latest intellectual curiosity, which is currently the Greek poet Sappho.
But this season, she designed more instinctually, using herself and an abstract black-and-gold collage she made in her notebook as a guide. When she saw similar shapes in the work by artist Imi Knoebel during a visit to the Dia Beacon, she saw it as a sign to follow her gut.
Along with the models, she cast friends, including Cecile Richards, author Roda Ahmed and Spanish singer Leiva, putting her brand family front and center. “It’s like this army of joyful and strong people coming together,” Hearst said during a preview.
The red carpet race has to already be on for the black knit gowns with raw-edged gold nappa contour bodices, which are made for the modern goddess. Hearst injected a bit of rock ‘n’ roll into her trademark suiting, too, with gold bars framing the lapels on a chic pantsuit.
She has long been taken with swirls, which she used this season as a knitwear motif on a groovy orange and gold set that, like much of the rest of the psychedelia bubbling up this week, would be at home at Burning Man. A black tubular knit bra top over flared pants was also fun.
Hearst has been working on perfecting pieces that are a mix of comfort knit and woven effects: exhibit A, a black merino wool sweater dress with ivory eco silk sculpted full sleeves.
Gold leather pants, a chic maxi coat and ruched leather skirts and tops rounded out the more edgy approach. Metallic gold sheer knit dresses, some draped artfully at the shoulders, were also gorgeous.
Next up for the designer is the Chloé show, then she’s opening a Gabriela Hearst store in Korea, followed by Los Angeles. How does she do it all?
“There’s a steep learning curve. Don’t get me wrong, but the secret to it all is work in advance and sleep well.”
To that end, she had a new recommendation for a sleep app, started by an entrepreneur who has worked with Navy Seals, she shared. Put in your flight time and it tells you when to eat and take supplements. Hearst’s mind-body approach makes one wonder if the wellness category could be her next move?