MILAN — Accessories in Milan were sleek, highly crafted, feminine and chic. Here’s a roundup of some of the luxury brands showing in town.
Bulgari‘s art of jewelry and fine leather goods expertise met for a collection of structured handbags embellished with a work of glinting chains morphing into geometrical patterns — each chain applied by hand. The new Serpenti Forever Butterfly Flow bags had jewel-like butterfly appliqués. The romantic theme continued with patterns of butterflies and lush gardens in pastel colors. A galuchat skin Serpenti Forever was treated with a glitter glaze while a smooth black calf skin and back-cut python skin bag was made even more precious through multishaped jeweled studs in onyx and mother-of-pearl.
Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi’s aim for spring ’20 was to dream up styles that were “anything but plain.” The collection focuses on animal print, part of the label’s DNA, but in an unexpected way. “I wanted to push it into new arenas to make it feel fresh and modern,” Choi said. For instance, on a pump, she combined leopard and zebra — and added a pop of neon orange on the heel. Other animal looks are adorned with oversize crystal embellishments, and snake patterns make a statement on bold platform sandals. Flat lattice sandals are also a highlight. Accessories are in step with the animal theme, and key styles are reworked with big spots or stripes.
Giuseppe Zanotti is all about flower power for spring. The decorative embellishment — lilies to roses, maxi to mini — is a central theme in the collection, which highlights the designer’s affinity for elegance and femininity. “I don’t want to forget my past. I am a sneaker designer, but I’m also about elegance,” he said. “I love the flower for daytime and evening.” Another standout piece is a mule crafted from transparent vinyl finished in a heel with translucent crystals.
Furla revealed a new logo inspired by an arch to emphasize its 90-plus year heritage. The brand’s “Furla 1927” bags, presented in a rainbow of colors, are the focus. Shoes are also a priority, and Furla is focusing on quality and working with new factories.
The rainbow platform roller skates stole the show at Aquazzura, where creative director Edgardo Osorio rolled out a fun collection that mirrored his hits through the years. Other whimsical styles include sandals adorned with butterflies and strawberries. “I’ve been going through my archives, and it gave me a chance to see everything we’ve been doing, look at the things I love and go back to our roots,” the designer said. “It’s sexy, it’s fun, there are shoes you can go dancing in and shoes for every day that have a little touch of [glamour].”
Sergio Rossi always has a big story for the season. For spring, it hopes to tap into logo mania with a 3-D “super heel,” crafted from its graphic statement logo using S and R initials. The heel is used on a range of the brand’s Sergio styles — from a pointed-toe pump to square-toe sandals and mules. Velcro-strapped sneakers are updated with it as well.
After kicking off its fall boot campaign with Kendall Jenner last week, Stuart Weitzman is going tropical with a colorful Caribbean-inspired collection that was presented against a backdrop of palm trees. Edmundo Castillo, the brand’s head of product design, offers up classic thong sandals with macramé and wooden beading plus espadrilles with the label’s new star embellishment and a Mary Jane adorned with crystals.
Casadei made a strong statement about ethical fashion with its nine-style capsule collection that uses fabrics woven by women in Burkina Faso, Africa, an area known for its artisanal weaving and one of the biggest producers of African cotton. The line is a collaboration with Ethical Fashion Initiative, which promotes the work of communities from developing countries.
At Rene Caovilla, spring Twenties floral motif is anything but ordinary. The brand combines floral embroideries with its signature crystals on spring designs, including an all-over crystal boot. Bejeweled PVC sandals are another highlight — and Caovilla also introduced kitten-heel thong sandals to take things down just a notch.
The shape of a simple tube was the starting point of designer Michael Anastassiades’ collection for Valextra. Named Flute, the collaboration focuses on the Italian brand’s “Series S” bag, which was created in the Sixties. Anastassiades imagined a brass tube keeping the rigid handle in place and connecting it to the body of the bag, a minimalist addition that turns the simple leather handbag into a design piece. All the other visual elements, from the stitching to the zips, are concealed within the design of the bag, which is available in an array of colors, from the simple black and white designs to more poetic pistachio and powder pink hues. The Cyprus-born and London-based designer also created an elegant line of 24-carat solid gold jewelry, including a dramatic single earring shaped like a circular cylinder, a first for the accessories brand. The collection is currently available to order from a selection of Valextra stores in Europe as well as at an installation at SKP department store in Beijing, running until Nov. 5.