From $850 Balenciaga Crocs to designer debuts from accessory heavy-hitters Chloé and Givenchy — the spring shows offered a “mixed bag” of product, according to buyers.While established houses like Chanel and Valentino offered cheeky antidotes to luxury fatigue, using PVC and a plethora of glitter, fresher names like Attico and Jacquemus also stood out with punchy, provocative heels and mini bags with lower price points, buyers said.“I wouldn’t say that there was a clear trend, particularly with shoes this season,” said Cassie Smart, Matchesfashion.com's shoes and handbags buying manager. “Each runway was representative of their respective brand.”Smart added, “What was interesting about this season is that designers were thinking about what women want to wear when spring delivers in January, February, March. What will excite that customer in the overall mood of that season.”[caption id="attachment_11019062" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Details at Chanel RTW Spring 2018[/caption]This manifested, she said, in a variety of seasonless boots. “It’s good for us. Previously in January, when the summer collections dropped, we would be talking about sandals in our content and point-of-view on the web site. It will be interesting to push our boot listings this year and see what the sales return is on that,” Smart said.Saks Fifth Avenue contemporary fashion director Cleo Davis-Urman observed a more general theme that the department store has labeled as “Embellish me.”“The essence of the season, more or less, is decorating yourself,” she said. This resulted in decorative kitten and midheel pump styles – embellished with glitter, sequins and pearls. Some of Balenciaga’s bags, she said, come with removable charms – a feature that is “exciting for the customer.”Barneys New York fashion director Marina Larroudé praised Saint Laurent’s feather boots, Isabel Marant’s diamante sandals, and Off-White’s Princess Diana-inspired collaboration with Jimmy Choo as styles “that speak to my seven-year-old self.”“We need to create an emotion for clients who come into the store, so they will want to spend money. They gravitate towards something that feels unique — that is the trend we saw happening in accessories — extravagance and emotion,” Larroudé said.“It probably has to do with everything in the world right now, how serious it is. If you are investing in fashion right now, you want it to give you a completely different [feeling]. People are being very creative in the way they are selling accessories these days – how many black bags does anyone need?” she added.Net-a-porter’s global buying director Elizabeth von der Goltz said: “I felt like design houses did a good job making things a little more emotional. In this moment, for sure, there are so many collections and brand it needs to be something that feels emotional.”[caption id="attachment_11015261" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Balenciaga RTW Spring 2018[/caption]Von der Goltz called out Loewe’s spring bag assortment with its lineup of gingham elephant pouches and logo-heavy totes – as a line that excelled at emotional heart-tugging. Perhaps there is no better lab sample than the house’s new furry, rabbit-shaped purse – the showroom sample of which, one buyer observed, was frayed from repeated petting during market appointments.Other brands highlighted by buyers included the debut collection of new Chloé creative director Natacha Ramsay-Levi. “I loved the Chloé boots — if I could pick one shoe of the season, that was it,” said Larroudé.“Chloé’s collection brought their style a little edgier and forward, especially for their shoe assortment,” said von der Goltz. [caption id="attachment_10997493" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Attico RTW Spring 2018[/caption]Attico also received praise across the board. The Milan-based label — designed by Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio — launched in 2016. Its glitzy, devil-may-care approach to getting dressed — accompanied by a slightly lower price point — has earned it a quick following. The brand’s fabric evening sachets and spikey, colorful heels have experienced success at retail. “Their product just looks great,” said von der Goltz.Wicker and rattan styles remained popular — with von der Goltz calling out styles by Carolina Santo Domingo, Ulla Johnson, Cult Gaia and Miu Miu. Moda Operandi’s vice president of non-apparel Jodi Kaplan pointed to straw styles by Loewe, Charlotte Olympia, Rebecca de Ravenel and Johanna Ortiz.Smart noted that wicker has developed a seasonless appeal among shoppers: “There is a lot of trend around vacation wicker – we’ve been seeing it go through into winter and become sort of a season antidote. We had a wicker bag with a shearling lining by Muuñ that sold out in a day.”PVC embellishments at Chanel, Gianvito Rossi, Valentino and Christian Louboutin were praised by many of the buyers. Jacquemus’ new build-a-block heels were noted by buyers for their unique shape, quirky sentiment and price point — less than $800 — which is below many other designer and luxury brands.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews