Accessories shone in Milan with patchwork treatments, iridescent and glittering surfaces, functional details, chain embellishments and a plethora of heel sizes and handbag shapes. Here, a look at some of the new offers for fall.
Bulgari went “Maxi Glam,” raising the glamour quotient as it presented its fall collection in a captivating set wrapped in a snake pattern by young Italian artist Andrea Crespi. The new Bulgari 7 Ways customizable accessory was inspired by a camera bag style with one or two detachable pockets and that can morph into a belt bag, a chain pouch or a crossbody pochette — a wink to the transformative power of the snake, a key symbol of the brand. The Serpenti Forever bag this season is smaller and more compact and for the first time has two external compartments. The leather treatments were standouts, such as the vegetable tanning and barrel tincture with an iridescent effect obtained by hand through a sponge. One model showed tiny mirror tassels hot-pressed into a base panel in canvas with an intriguing mosaic effect. The color palette was inspired by Bulgari’s core jewelry business — pearl, topaz, emerald green, berry tourmaline and fire amber.
British label Jimmy Choo takes an artful approach to fall, upping the glamour and emphasizing art and culture influences. The hero cutout bejeweled boot features a new house pattern that took cues from the stories of Japanese Emakimono scrolls and the French toile de Jouy print. “Fashion is so fast, so much that you don’t pay attention. I wanted to draw attention to it,” said creative director Sandra Choi, who was inspired by muses Talitha Getty and Tina Chow. “Treasure it because someone actually made an effort and put a skill in the beauty of it….It is all about the different art and craft and detail.” Patchwork was also key, with contrasting materials like embossed snakeskin and calfskin leather used on pumps, boots and mules.
Giuseppe Zanotti is telling three distinct stories for fall. “The first is my past — the couture, silk, the stilettos, the femininity, the glamour,” he said. The second part? A more contemporary take, with biker boots and daytime stilettos. The on-trend square toe was prominent on a new geometric fall sandal in a variety of heel heights. Finally, the third section focused on high-heeled sneakers, Zanotti’s new take on the ath-leisure trend. “It’s nice because the heel is part of my DNA,” the designer said.
At Aquazzura, designer Edgardo Osorio understands it’s all about the right mix. For fall 2020, he offers up the statement styles he’s become known for — like glittering platform sandals inspired by Bond Girls and feather boots. But he also explores versatility with shearling ankle boots and black lace-up, knee-high combat boots.
Gianvito Rossi‘s cinematic presentation put the spotlight on an eclectic collection — with show-stopping thigh-high stretch boots and intricate feather sandals as well as more comfortable hiker styles and some sturdy new heel treatments. The designer also unveiled an elevated take on a ballet flat — a classic style that gets the special Rossi touch.
Sergio Rossi was one of the first brands to reignite the square-toe trend — and now it has another fresh take for fall 2020. It takes cues from the brand’s archival styles in the Aughts. Pumps, mules, sandals, slouchy boots and booties feature graphic lines, squared toes and an hourglass heel. “It’s once again a tribute to our heritage, exploring the polished appeal of the 2000s in our archive, but always looking forward,” said chief executive officer Riccardo Sciutto.
Chain embellishments are everywhere this season, and Casadei took the trend a step further with the introduction of its new C-chain graphic logo, used on the heels of new styles. “The chain has always been a graphic element, which I included in my sketches, but it’s also a symbol of what links us to our customers. It’s the chain of our DNA, it’s the lucky chain of events, stories and emotions which brought us here,” said Cesare Casadei.
Geox, which has been at the forefront of sustainability, touted new versions of its Nebula sneaker. This season the upper came in silver or bordeaux tones —combining a jacquard material made from recycled plastic with small suede leather details. Each pair is made from two and a half recycled plastic bottles. Suede ankle boots with python print and biker styles with shiny toe tips were also featured, and metallic hi-tops and animal-print sneakers had chunky white soles.
Furla brought out some serious star power — the brand’s ambassador and model Irina Shayk — to debut The Furla 1927, a see-now-buy-now top-handle bag. The look features the brand’s signature arch logo on the closure. The style comes in mini, small and regular versions with materials from leather to satin to velvet.
Sneakers were the star of the Hogan presentation, with architectural city boots and loafers also in focus. The Hyperactive trainer is the major women’s launch of the season. The color palette include black slate, dark indigo and green hues.
René Caovilla‘s signature Cleo sandal gets a winter update with square toes and geometric heels. A new white leather sneaker is adorned with crystals, while a snake braid with rhinestones decorates boots.
Santoni‘s women’s collection takes cues from the brand’s well-crafted men’s silhouettes. Vibrant hues dress up loafers, lace-ups, hand-polished calfskin boots — and even mountain boots. The double buckle, a Santoni signature, is used throughout.
At Giannico, Nicoló Beretta was inspired by Italian heiress Luisa Casati, the fashion icon who lived at the turn of the 20th century as the original female dandy. His decadent mules and glittering pumps balance sophistication with his modern approach.
Lancel for fall presented a new version of its storied Premier Flirt, emphasizing its feminine shapes with soft napa and a front pocket that makes it recognizable. In this new version the pocket is revisited in contrast and it stands out in the mignon size.
Genderless fashion is redefining the market — and Fratelli Rossetti played up both its masculine and feminine sides with crossover styles in new colors and materials.
Let’s hear it for the pearl. Coliac, which launched with shoes, has expanded into ready-to-wear, but the unique jewelry footwear still takes center stage. Pearl accents dress up derbys and other alluring new flats.
At AGL, the three Giusti took a trip through the fashion capitals and experimented with shape and volume for fall. Moccasins are decorated with mini piercings, boots have colorful kitten heels and loafers feature maxi accessories. There is also a new elliptical heel.
Pollini presented its second archive collection, inspired by the brand’s DNA. Geometric and patchwork details celebrate Seventies Italian design — and define classic boot, loafer and pump styles.
Church’s goes contemporary — and reinterprets its classic styles in black and red patent leather. The new styles feature subtle design nods to the Seventies, including cropped ankle boots, fringe detailing and tapered lace-ups.
Rodo‘s Sixty-Six bag takes cues from an archival style, and the locks recall the metallic detail of the square-pointed profiled ankle boot. Wicker is once again prominent in the heels and tassels of the shoes, emphasizing the brand’s artisanal approach.
At Paciotti, archival high-cut pumps with crystal straps and soft boots with pleats were shown alongside new sculptural heels and pumps with laser-cut contours.
Borsalino for fall combined different inspirations and references for an eclectic look. While a hat with a wide, soft brim and embellished with a maxi ribbon tied to resemble a blooming flower exuded a delicate, feminine vibe, a ranger hat, splashed with a leopard print and enriched with a metallic chain, was designed for eccentric ladies with a frisky attitude.
In keeping with one of the season’s biggest trends so far, Il Bisonte worked a timeless color palette of neutrals, which was peppered by bright accents. Injected with a revisited Seventies vibe, crossbody bags came both in more rounded or geometric shapes, while a bucket style was enriched with a rainbow-inspired insert for a touch of fun.
Storied leather goods label Serapian each season is updating its offering while staying true to its roots. Inspired by Seventies designs found in the archives, the luxury brand introduced for fall new styles rendered in the signature Mosaico pattern, including a cute messenger bag with exotic skin insets in autumnal colors such as burgundy, emerald green and navy blue. A bucket bag available in two sizes played on the same juxtaposition of napa leather and elaphe details and was peppered with a tassel and contrasting metallic hardware.
Genevieve Xhaet continues to charm with her Flapper headwear brand, pushing the boundaries of millinery while continuing to build on approachable items. For fall she developed a new range of hats inspired by wigs, crafted from lamé pleated fabrics in gemstone colors such as ruby and gold molded in the shape of bobs, braids and bows. Also drawing inspiration from hairstyles, Xhaet created whimsical headbands embellished with curly feathers reminiscent of baby hair. A champion of sustainable materials, the milliner offered baseball caps made of Aquafil’s eco-friendly nylon peppered with a bow at the back and cloche hats crafted from wool felt splashed with animalier patterns.
In its quest for more sustainable manufacturing processes, Officina Del Poggio has chosen to partner with Venetian fabric company Rubelli to use offcuts from its collections to create some of the pieces of the Venetian Garden collection, including the Hunting Basket, which is patterned with tie-dye floral prints in a velvety finish. Also new this season is the Hunting Bag, inspired by the shape of a French hunting bag and done in vegetable-tanned leather.