Olgana Paris: Olga Djangirov of Olgana Paris has developed a print featuring 23 of her label’s best-selling styles. The design was created by her in-house Paris atelier and comes emblazoned across white pumps and ankle boots. You’ve got the Amazone Mink beloved of the Kardashian clan, the Amazone Mon Bijoux which has just graced the feet of Lupita Nyongo, Rihanna favorite the Celeste and the Attachante as worn by Elisabeth Moss. Main collection highlights included a surrealist glove motif done in velvet and a new kitten heel ankle boot in glossy mink — an ultra luxurious take on the Ugg boot trend. — Stephanie Hirschmiller
Pierre Hardy: Pierre Hardy drew on the femme fatale this season. Inspired by the Marilyn Monroe movie “Bus Stop,” and Uma Thurman’s “Even Cowgirls Get the Blues,” he fused hyper-femininity with rodeo vibes. The result was one of the designer’s strongest and most succinct collections yet. Looks included a streamlined Western boot set on a micro Arco heel. It came glossy black pony or fire engine red. Elsewhere Hardy’s signature hybrid aesthetic played out in saloon singer brocade boots with Lurex stripe detailing like a sneaker tab, while feisty color-blocked sandals could hold their own in any saloon. — S.H.
Hermès: Artist Mathias Kiss created The set for Pierre Hardy’s Hermès accessories presentation, and he angled both floors and walls to dizzying effect.
Footwear combinations were similarly unexpected with the house’s classic riding boot done in primary brights. Trompe l’oeil loafer/ankle boots and hybrid sporty styles – part shoe, part sneaker – also played with perception. Red was the shade of the season from color-block platforms to monochrome hiker boots with matching soles. “Seventies is back, Eighties is back and so are the Nineties,” said Hardy. “There are so many different types of women you need all kinds of different shoes as well.” — S.H.
Aquazzura: Aquazzura celebrated female empowerment for fall 2018 via dramatic ruffles and graphic Helmut Newton-esque lines. “I was thinking about femininity and what it is to be a strong woman today,” said creative director Edgardo Osorio who drew inspiration from Alicia Drake’s novel, “A Beautiful Fall,” set in Paris in the Seventies and Eighties. “That era was such a time of creative freedom which I think is so relevant right now,” he said. “It was a time of big, big changes, of liberation and empowerment.” — S.H.
Tomasini: Bag brand Tomasini has launched footwear for fall 2018. “It’s continuity,” said designer, Emmanuel Tomasini. “After the bags you have to do the shoes.” The unique feature is the heel – totally straight at the back, its square silhouette mirroring the embellishment on his bags. Pumps, boots and sandals came in disco metallics, leopard print and embossed snakeskin, inspired by the economic boom of the Seventies and Eighties. “I imagined a woman who likes to shop, who goes dancing at Studio 54 and has no fear of the future,” he said. — S.H.
Aurélie Bidermann: Mirror, mirror… Aurélie Bidermann’s irregular motifs were created with a lightweight, non-breakable reflective material and framed in gold plate to create a striking necklace, pictured here, as well as matching earrings and a ring. — Alex Wynne
Myriam Schaefer: Myriam Schaefer doesn’t do trends, preferring to craft her high-end bags to stand the test of time, with the highest quality leathers and precise attention to detail, she explained. Nevertheless, in a bright green spotted on many a runway this season, her new clasp bag fit the bill for fall. — A.W.
Aperlai: Diamante is now a dime a dozen, but Alessandra Lanvin’s baguette-cut crystal embellishments have a vintage, old-Hollywood appeal. They snake around the foot on an asymmetric strappy sandal, sparkle gently from the heels of Mongolian fur booties and run right up the back of soaring OTK boots like the seams of very glamorous stockings.— S.H.
Stella Luna: Creative director and former French Vogue editor Capucine Safyurtlu knows which way the wind is blowing. Black patent ankle boots with an asymmetric Eighties ruffle were her star turn. Deceptively simple, it was all in the placement of that frill and the way it hugged the foot on either side. Ice skate-style ankle boots were likewise on point.— S.H.
Alexandre Birman: “This season was about taking more risks in terms of both materials and color combinations,” said the designer. Fall featured slouchy zebra motif boots done in tiny paillettes while his signature tie-front Clarita sandal came reimagined as a pointy mule in python, suede and velvet combinations. Look out for his debut New York store on Madison Avenue this year.— S.H.
Francesco Russo: Russo never strays far from his classic silhouettes with their pointy high backs but this season he reinterpreted them with an unusual twist. Zebra motifs were done via contrast python overlays on ivory leather while leopard came glitter printed onto suede. Western style florals embroidered onto clear PVC evoked the rodeo. “The feet look almost naked with just the design on top,” he said.— S.H.
Rupert Sanderson: Saturated shades and opulent details characterized the collection. Velvet pumps with dramatic oversize swagger recalled opulent robes while others came swathed in asymmetric bands of torn satin. There was also a new sneaker: low-profile and neat, it was fastened by a climbing-inspired elastic looped around the classic Sanderson pebble. “You basically bungee jump into them,” said the designer.— S.H.
Clergerie: For his first women’s wear collection, creative director David Tourniaire-Beauciel offered up a modern take on the label’s archive styles including aerodynamic wedges with the look of Deco furniture. Elsewhere, there was a sizable crossover with the men’s line he debuted in January. Boots came with articulated soles and raffia sneakers were reimagined in gold.— S.H.
Both Paris: Known for its vulcanized rubber dips, this Franco-Japanese label launched a couple seasons ago with men’s and unisex styles. This official women’s wear debut involves industrial thigh-high waders, combat boots with exaggerated soles evoking tires plus sneakers already spotted on Bella Hadid.— S.H.
Sanayi 313: For fall, Serena Uziyel expanded on her artisan label’s signature slipper. Ankle boots, their heels obscured by rich silk fringing were a highlight — not least for their exaggerated silhouette and palette of bronze and saturated azure. Core styles featured masculine-inspired details such as paisley brocades and ruched velvet bows evoking the front of a dress shirt.— S.H.
Christian Louboutin: With lacquered heels recalling Seventies veneers, the decade’s interiors proved a major inspiration for Christian Louboutin’s fall collection. He even commissioned a custom dollhouse complete with replica furniture in which to display them for his Paris presentation. Such was the attention to detail, there was even a bedspread to match one of his graphic designs. Elsewhere, Louboutin’s collaboration with Halpern, which walked the runway at London Fashion Week, delivered boots in a riot of firework sequins and animal prints.— S.H.
Eugène Riconneaus: Exploring themes of empowerment and transversality, the worlds of art, street culture and French heritage continued to collide. New styles included heels with leather accents in the shape of thorns or crystal-studded marijuana leaves, sneakers with studded open leather uppers and booties with artsy gold hand-painted straps. A regal touch — nodding to the namesake designer’s youth growing up in the historic city of Blois — came from heels with rabbit fur embellishments and jewel-tones fur-lined flats. — Katya Foreman
Delvaux: Delvaux with its collection titled “And the Oscar Goes To…” tipped its cap to glamorous divas of Hollywood’s Golden Age — from Marlene Dietrich to Elizabeth Taylor — and the world of art and artifice. Effects included a heightened interplay of shadow and light, like on the two-tone ivory and black Brillant with a lacquered buckle, and contrasts between matte and shiny, with nuances and textures used to create a vintage spin on the house’s signature designs: the Brillant and the Tempête. Moving from cinematic jewel tones to shades lifted from nature, a camaïeu of khaki — from olive to forest green — nods to Kim Novak’s wardrobe in “Vertigo”; scarlet pops evoke lipstick or the seats in old school movie theaters, and a sky-blue hue is reminiscent of Grace Kelly’s style in “To Catch a Thief.” For the Brillant’s 60th anniversary, the house has released a limited edition run of the Brillant Diva in shiny black alligator, embossed with the words “Brillant 60th anniversary” and the house’s signature crown.