PARIS — The appetite for optimistic dressing trickled down to accessories for spring 2022, with designers delivering upbeat, colorful collections that are getting a big thumbs-up from buyers. From Loewe’s kitsch heels to Givenchy’s sneaker-boot hybrids and Chanel’s logo heels and gold body chains, there was an experimental mood on this season’s runways and a daring, “more is more” approach when it came to accessories.
Here WWD rounds up the best accessories from Paris’ runways.
Matthew Williams has always had a way with cleverly designed, hit accessories. For his first physical runway show as Givenchy’s creative director, he upped the ante with a series of thigh-high boots that featured utilitarian clog-like soles. They came in a variety of colors, from neutrals to bright pops of green and red, and one iteration was fully knitted from upper to sole.
“The new Givenchy boot really encapsulates this mood of hybrid dressing, creating different attitudes to dress down an evening piece in a modern way or offering great comfort throughout the day,” said Cassie Smart, head of women’s wear accessories at Matchesfashion.
Jonathan Anderson experimented with new forms and compositions for his latest Loewe outing, in a collection he described as neurotic and psychedelic — with a touch of surrealism. In the shoe department this was translated into metallic pumps, with heels shaped like birthday candles, roses or broken eggs, the yolk spilled and gleaming. Unsurprisingly, they set Instagram on fire and they will no doubt be a hit on the shop floor come next spring.
Chanel delighted show attendees by going back to the ’80s supermodel era, with photographers gathered around and models strutting down the runway, winking and flipping their hair. Like with all things ’80s, the mood was more-is-more, with logo heels, sexy body chains and extra-large hobo bags or vanity cases in pop colors.
“The more-is-more approach to styling on the Chanel runway delivered one of the most covetable accessory collections, from the block heel logo sandal, which is sure to be a sellout to pearl beaded bags and bold gold body chains,” said Neiman Marcus fashion director Lisa Aiken.
With sustainability top-of-mind when making buying decisions, Gabriela Hearst’s Chloé was another runway hit among retailers. Building on the success of last season’s woven slides and knitted Moon Boots, Hearst presented supersized woven bags in bright color palettes and casual flip-flops, created in partnership with Ocean Sole, an organization that upcycles discarded flip-flops and helps provide education and health care in Kenya.
“Gabriela Hearst continues to inspire us at Chloé and we predict that her beautiful woven bags and colorful flip-flops will be cult items for the spring 2022 season,” said Libby Page, senior market editor at Net-a-porter.
Coperni, the independent label that quickly made an “It” bag out of their structured hobo Swipe bags, upped the ante in the accessories department for spring 2022. Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant wanted to create a “mermaid bag” this time around, twisting their signature shape to look as if it has melted and reworking it in translucent leather. They added more accessories to the mix that have similar viral potential as the Swipe bags, including shell-embellished platform flip-flops; playful crab-shaped earrings designed alongside jeweler Alan Crocetti, and retro sunglasses, which were teased on the runway and will be launched further down the line as an “end-of-year surprise.”
At Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada went all-in on the Y2K trend, giving it her own subversive twist by cutting trousers into minuscule skirts, while shirts and sweaters were cropped to an extreme. The same notion of reworking pieces from the past was behind the brand’s new sneaker collaboration, revealed on the runway this week and set to be released next year. Signature New Balance 574 sneakers were reworked in white, khaki or blue denim, with raw edges, while the Miu Miu logo was added on the tongue of the sneakers. Given the buzz around New Balance and past collaborations with the likes of Staud and Casablanca, this is bound to be an instant sellout.