Roger Vivier: Roger Vivier for the debut collection under its new creative director, Gherardo Felloni, transformed a stunning hôtel particulier in Paris’ 5th arrondissement into the Roger Vivier Hotel.
Women embodying artists, opera singers and actresses, etc., played out their roles in rooms throughout the house, with Felloni’s creations showcased alongside statues, a birdcage, and other charming scenarios.
Highlights included the Très Vivier, Felloni’s take on the Belle Vivier pump, a shoe closer to the original design with a larger buckle and a new cube-shaped spin on Vivier’s signature Virgule heel, and a Sixties-flavored, bright-pink mule with a rhinestone buckle. Other highlights included a range of slingback pumps in crushed velvet, and a pair of leopard-print mary janes with rosebud embellishments. The more flamboyant offerings included the Maharaja slingback embellished with a spray of ostrich feathers. — Katya Foreman
Le Luco: A project led by Hélène Carrouée, in the design seat, and Nathalie Colas, chief executive officer and commercial director, Le Luco, a new Parisian luxury leather goods brand carrying a “less is more” approach, takes its name from a nickname coined by the locals for one of the city’s chicest parks: the Luxembourg Gardens.
The debut collection houses six handmade styles mixing noble and high-tech materials.
Highlights include the Equilibre, a revisited shoulder bag, and the Grand Large, inspired by the hull of a sailboat. The line’s subtle nature-based palette includes sand, chestnut and dusky rose. — K. F.
Delvaux: Guests arriving at the Delvaux presentation were greeted by an installation showcasing a new Jean Colonna-designed, supersize version of the house’s Brillant bag, the l’xxl, with a pump moving the bag up and down like a lung to demonstrate its lightness.
New highlights included the Tempête MM Tzigane with wicker panels and the Brillant Mini Jaipur with its bejeweled bracelet handle made from gold-colored metallic discs encrusted with precious gems.
The collection’s equally exotic masterpiece was the Lady Gipset, hand-embroidered with different kinds of gemstones including quartz, tourmaline, sodalite, amazonite and pink jasper. The piece took around 100 hours to make and only 10 pieces will be produced worldwide. — K. F.
Maison Michel: For a former ready-to-wear designer (she had her own fashion line, Pièce d’Anarchive), Priscilla Royer doesn’t actually seem to miss creating clothes that much.
“With hats I don’t need to think about the silhouette, there is a lot more freedom,” says the creative director of Maison Michel. “All I need to do is play with fabrics, colors and shapes.”
The collection looked to seabeds and the different creatures that can be found lurking in the darkness. One chapter of the collection focused on glimmering details, like the shine generated by a passing school of fish. Another was reminiscent of corals: metal studs in silver, gold and rose gold replaced Maison Michel’s signature ribbon. This was spotted both on a classic taupe hat as well as a bright orange model, with the brand’s signature cat-ear detail. Some pieces could be tweaked depending on one’s mood: a hybrid between a silk turban and a visor could also be worn as a full turban, simply by turning the visor to the back of the head. A bronze transparent beret was simply stunning. — Fleur Burlet
Yazbukey: The designer transformed the stage of the Théâtre de la Tour Eiffel into a one-of-a-kind fitness center. Models flexed muscles, checked pedometers and submitted to yoga routines wearing a mix of the brand’s classic red lip motif — spotted on black bandeau tops, sweatbands and shoe clips — and new designs. A pink-and-green houndstooth motif was inspired by an Alaïa print and plastered over Lycra crop tops and leggings. Protein bars and energy drinks featured on sleeveless tops and shorts, and Plexiglas boxing gloves dangled around necks.
“The bars and bottles all have names taken from workout music songs, like Queen’s ‘Don’t Stop Me Now,’ which is both great to listen to at the gym but also for an instant mood lift,” said the designer. Net hooded jackets were thrown over the skimpy workout clothes, while a model carried a bottle holder made of a vegetal-based plastic substitute, a first-time use for the brand. — F.B.
Donia Allègue: The designer shot to fame when Beyoncé picked one of her turbans to wear in her “Apes–t” video, filmed at the Louvre, but her namesake brand has been designing elegant headwear since 2014. “I want the turban to become part of women’s wardrobe, alongside hats and gloves,” said Donia Allègue, who trained at Dior. She demonstrated the different ways a rich burgundy velvet turban could be positioned on the head: flattened like a headband or piled on top like a hat.
“I deliberately stayed away from any Oriental or Art Deco references for this collection, because I want to show how versatile turbans can actually be,” said Allègue. The designs are made in France and come in two different sizes. A shimmering bronze model caught the eye, as did a more daring gold creation with an imposing side swoop. — F.B.
Moynat: A gold-coated version of the house’s Réjane bag with curved sides was among the showstoppers of the collection, as well as a variation featuring gold particles sprinkled in between the scales of the crocodile skin.
Ramesh Nair also presented elegant Art Deco-inspired clasps with enameling, and new styles made from a single piece of leather.
But holding their own was a series of mini vanity cases in a range of stone finishes, including sandstone and slate, or artsy marquetry versions in abstract colors. — K.F.
Olgana Paris: While these Venetian mask-inspired styles were new, this celebrity favorite is anything but incognito, with VIP credits including Kaia Gerber on the last day of PFW. Expect an e-commerce site next month, followed by a brick-and-mortar debut next year in Los Angeles. — Stephanie Hirschmiller
Hermès: Platforms came with sun-and-moon motifs or cutout clouds, giving a new meaning to the term “walking on air.” Other highlights included geometric “Sputnik” heels. “I was thinking about a trip to the moon or over the rainbow,” said the brand’s creative director of footwear, Pierre Hardy. — S.H.
Aquazzura: Edgardo Osorio channeled glamorous summer locales: pom-pom embroidery was inspired by a trip to Morocco, while seashell embellishments recalled holidays in Ibiza. He’s also launching a capsule collection with Racil Chalhoub with fun archive print combos. — S.H.
Fabrizio Viti: The designer said his collection has “evolved to fit the needs of today’s women” with “variety to suit her dynamic life.” Cue daisies, denim and bow-embellished mules for cocktail o’clock. — S.H.
Pierre Hardy: “Sneakers are like skin cream,” the designer said. “They can take 10 years off your life.” No surprise then that he’s reimagined the two graphic styles he launched for men’s in June. Elsewhere, his Alphaville satchels came with new brightly colored resin chains. — S.H.
Dondoks: This small Franco/Brazilian label launched by two Parisian cabaret dancers is barely a year old but has already been snapped up by Bloomingdale’s. Sunshine-seeking styles and low heels only, because, from the perspective of the designers, it’s always summer somewhere and when you’re tall, who needs stilettos? — S.H.
Tabitha Simmons: The designer has been busy. A Brock collaboration during NYFW, and Johanna Ortiz 2.0 for PFW during which she also unveiled a holiday capsule with Equipment. Plus there’s her other job styling Milan’s Dolce & Gabbana show. As for Simmons’ own line, chintzy floral prints met PVC blooms. — S.H.
Clergerie: “It’s a mix of the different [codes] of Clergerie,” said creative director David Tourniaire-Beauciel of this mule with its dramatic Mohawk and contrast metal heel. “The idea was to work on the artisanal straw but in a more feminine way.” — S.H.
Rupert Sanderson: A master of stealth branding, the designer riffed on the pebble motif that has become his unofficial logo. He magic-ed the shape into a wavy line edged in clear Perspex and transformed its outline into leather chain links wrapped prettily around the foot. — S.H.
Francesco Russo: This may look like a pair of Russo’s regular Flame sandals but it’s actually part of a SNBN A-Gender capsule available in European sizes ranging from 35 to 45. For spring, the Flame came in acid yellow and Klein Blue alongside new pleated slingbacks and skeleton pumps. — S.H.
Pedro Garcia: The Spanish brand has collaborated with Los Angeles-based Raquel Allegra. The capsule features classic Garcia silhouettes like plimsolls, and Japanese onsen-inspired padded satin thongs in Allegra’s signature tie-dye motifs. — S.H.
Malone Souliers by Roy Luwolt: Following the departure of designer and cofounder Mary Alice Malone, collections will be created by an in-house team rather than a “name.” New styles for spring included smart evolutions on the brand DNA including new takes on the ever-popular Maureen style. — S.H.
Myriam Schaefer: The devil is in the details when it comes to Myriam Schaefer’s leather bags. For spring, additions to the minimalist line-up included “Solal,” a carry-all featuring belt-like accessories inspired by a pair of vintage jeans, available in a rich caramel shade, denim blue or cream. In a subtle nod to non-conformity, she offered a chain instead of a simple leather strap to carry it over the shoulder. — Alex Wynne
Charlotte Chesnais: The designer continued to play with shapes, bending her designs to wrap around ears, fingers and wrists in inventive and modern ways. A clinking, two-piece necklace-cum-keychain was a highlight, as well as the delicate engagement rings. Earrings came as simple spears, either smooth gold or diamond-encrusted, and as soft loops. — Mimosa Spencer
Chaumet: Taking inspiration from Empress Joséphine, Chaumet outfitted its Place Vendôme salons with tropical foliage in a nod to her Martinique roots to show the Joséphine Aigrette collection. The house ventured into colorful territory, offering the tiara-shaped rings with drop-shaped colored stones, encrusted with diamonds and some with dangling pearls, meant for mixing, matching and stacking. — M.S.
Goossens: The label toggled between light and hefty, using colorful stones as fine beads to make sautoir necklaces or large and chunky ones to make cabochon necklaces, including blue, gold, orange and pink set in gold metal. An extra long gold cuff bracelet was made to look like a ripped piece of cloth, with two tears, while a shorter one with orange and turquoise stones was particularly bold. Talisman necklaces included a goldfish coin with a turquoise eye and a coral branch in gold with a crystal. — M.S.
Hermès: Continuing on the “Let’s Play” theme of the year, Hermès offered a playful collection that included the Twins Bag, made up of two separate pieces that clip together or can serve as separate clutches. Jewelry included wood from olive trees made into studded, chunky rings and bracelets. A Chaine d’Ancre necklace was made from rows of chains that fall together in elegant and prominent layers. The house created a charming paper furniture universe to show the collection, complete with paper desks, chairs and lamps, and even a paper copy machine. — M.S.
Marie-Hélène de Taillac: Building on an ever-expanding offer animal world, Marie-Hélène de Taillac offered intricate, carved earrings featuring koi, horses and cheetahs. Brushed yellow gold rings were adorned with pearls, ranging in size. The queen’s amethyst necklace and earrings were set with minimal use of metal, so that the stones fell like huge droplets of water. — M.S.
Nuun: Nourah AlFaisal looked to the stars for her constellation collection of geometric shaped rings, earrings and necklaces playing on asymmetry and dotted with clusters of diamonds, in white and yellow gold. The constellation ring carries a removable piece, Starship Enterprise-style, and a 3.28-carat diamond. — M.S.