Newly appointed Stuart Weitzman designer Giovanni Morelli staged a fashion week presentation, a first for the brand, to present his new vision for the label.
“I like New York, because New York is very chaotic,” Morelli said. He noted that chaos inspired his shoe collection, which incorporated new hardware, metal sculptural details and a mix of textures and fabrics.
The lineup included pool slides in black with chain details, beige sock booties with a fishnet-knitted overlay and pointed mules with mismatched metal sculptural accents. The designer reimagined thigh-high boots, a staple for the brand, with a mix of textured suede and shearling details. The Nudist, another classic, got a tweak with the simple addition of a cufflike charm on the toe strap. Morelli pushed the brand into new categories as well, including bags and costume jewelry.
“We started with the shoe box idea, which came from the packaging, to do clutches and bags — it’s an ironic way to start bags for a shoe brand,” Morelli reported. The bags came in several sizes from mini, key-chain-like shoeboxes with silver and gold accents, to larger lunch-box shapes with and without straps, as well as a medium-size tote. The standout versions are in the label’s new signature color, which they are calling blue violet. Jewelry was mostly silver or gold cuffs in styles that mimic the hardware details found on the shoes and bags.
There were a lot of new ideas, but Morelli also kept his eye on the girl who has been a customer for years by freshening up the Weitzman classics just enough to keep her wanting more.
Paul Andrew’s inspiration for his collection began on a walk through New York’s Museum of Modern Art, where he came across a painting by Robert Motherwell that “triggered the idea of doing a collection with a strong bold color palette of red, black and white,” Andrew said. “And when I began sketching, I’d just seen a preview of ”Call Me by Your Name.’ I loved the movie’s soundtrack, which led to thoughts about the Eighties and what my mother was wearing at that time.”
What this translated to for Andrew’s fall collection is lace up boots a la Madonna in “Desperately Seeking Susan”; slouchy boots in sparkling silver, matte and patent; spike heels in mixed bold materials; and sling back square-toed pumps with silver button details at the toe. A Motherwell print of a red canvas with black brush strokes was used in a lace-up flat boot and kitten-heeled booties.
“My work at Salvatore Ferragamo has helped define what I’m doing at my line,” he said. “There it was about bringing the heritage of that brand forward, but what you see here is my own singular voice. It is about my influences and my own experiences and bringing that together to form this very personal aesthetic.”
Andrew’s collection felt nostalgic and personal, and right in step with what his customer expects from him: fashionable and wearable. “I think women just don’t want to be crippled by their shoes anymore,” Andrews said.