When Vision Expo East descends on New York City, so does a litany of specialized optical shop owners from across North America.
WWD spoke with seven opticians and store owners from cities spanning New Orleans to Sherwood Park, Alberta in Canada. While their client bases are no doubt diverse, some trends have emerged: a growing appetite for colorful frames and a wardrobe of eyewear, rather than one utilitarian pair of everyday specs. But despite eyewear’s all-time popularity, business owners are struggling with technicians, staffing and keeping up with the technology necessary to compete with the big stores.
Here, they talk about their views on the market in their own words.
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Store: Eyes on Hudson, Dobbs Ferry, New York
Year opened: 2020
Proprietor: Katelyn Rogerson, O.D.
Key brands carried: Jacques Marie Mage, Thierry Lasry, Masunaga, Ahlem and Moscot
WWD: What are some trends you are seeing now in the optical frame space?
Katelyn Rogerson: The biggest trend we see is that oversize is not over. Our clients love bold statement frames like the Enzo from Jacques Marie Mage and the Thundery from Thierry Lasry. Another huge trend is exposing the hardware inside the frame. Ahlem does this beautifully, by using the translucence of the acetate to showcase a gorgeous Art Deco filigree on the temple wire.
WWD: What are some of the biggest changes, either trend-wise or in the business space, that you’ve faced in the last five years?
K.R.: Independent optical boutiques have not traditionally participated in e-commerce, but now indie eye shops are likely to be left behind if they do not display their offerings online. We have an online shop that we love as a marketing channel to share our collection with potential clients. But we have also sold frames to online buyers across the United States.
WWD: What are you on the lookout for at Vision Expo this year?
K.R.: This year at Vision Expo I am looking for color. Our clients love deep blues, hunter greens and even some yellows in the honey-mustard family. Classic eyewear design in gorgeous contemporary colors is so compelling.
WWD: Talk about the challenges of operating a small optical business in today’s world.
K.R.: Small business owners in the optical industry face numerous challenges that would be familiar to any small business owner, including staffing shortages, supply chain backlogs, an uphill battle against cutthroat online behemoths. We are literally on Main Street, we employ local talent, and we offer unique brands, some even designed and manufactured locally. We are lucky that we are in an area that values the experience we offer, but the challenge remains that we will never be able to compete on price with corporate online retailers — so we must provide the highest-quality products, as well as a recognizable and dependable brand experience to keep our clients loyal.
Store: The Vision Parlour, Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada
Year opened: 2020 (I however have worked in the eyewear business for the past 23 years)
Proprietors: Tana and Ben Currie
Key brands carried: Krewe, Strucktur, Nathalie Blanc, Monsieur Blanc, Bellinger, Caroline Abram, Lowercase NYC, Gucci, Dior, Celine and Tom Ford
WWD: What are some trends you are seeing now in the optical frame space?
Tana Currie: We’re seeing frames incorporating the use of mixed materials: metals paired with leather; acetates inlaid with lace, abalone or feathers. And we are seeing the emergence of color and playfulness. We were in such a muted place as a society for the past few years. Now clients are asking for color and interesting shapes. They really want to have fun with their eyewear collection again.
WWD: What are some of the biggest changes, either trend-wise or in the business space, that you’ve faced in the last five years?
T.C.: Trend-wise we are seeing clients creating an eyewear wardrobe. They are curating and investing in pieces that they will be wearing for years to come. We are moving away from the “one and done” frames that clients dispose of the following year. There is now the shift of mindset to treating eyewear like shoes or handbags — just one pair won’t do for the client’s changing lifestyle needs and style.
As for changes in the business space, there of course has been the increase in marketing for consumers to buy their eyewear online. I meet many clients that tried the online route but were either not satisfied with their vision or not satisfied with their frames.
I can only speak specifically to Canada, but I have noticed an uptick in some of the larger, corporate entities buying the smaller and/or independent boutique opticals. The name on the outside of the building stays the same, but many times the changes on the inside are not to the clients’ benefit.
WWD: What are you on the lookout for at Vision Expo this year?
T.C.: We’re on the lookout for frame lines that are carving out a fashion niche, yet are homing in on quality of manufacturing.
We are also seeking out unique and interesting kids’ eyewear. These little ones are seeing their parents and older siblings have fun experimenting with different eyewear looks and they want to be able to do that as well. Numerous times we’ve had kids tell us that they don’t want the same styles that other kids in their class have. They want to be different and express their own sense of style.
WWD: Talk about the challenges of operating a small optical business in today’s world.
T.C.: As a relatively new and smaller optical, I don’t have the marketing budget or store name that is easily recognized. Thankfully, due to social media and numerous client referrals, The Vision Parlour is seeing consistent growth.
One of the ongoing challenges I think with any smaller boutique is building market awareness. It’s letting potential clients know that we do indeed carry those recognizable brand name lines complemented with the autonomy to search out independent unique lines from around the world that may not be seen locally. My goal is to combine the finest frames with the finest service.
Store: Primary Eye Care, New Orleans
Year opened: 1990
Proprietor: Jarrett Johnson
Key brands carried: Due to a diverse patient base we have Ferragamo, Shinola, Calvin Klein, Tory Burch, Gucci, YSL, MCM, Chloe, Monte Blanc, Dragon, Randy Jackson, Sean Jean, Coco and Breezy, Cinzia, Alan J, Jonathan Cate, DIFF, Europa and Nike
WWD: What are some trends you are seeing now in the optical frame space?
Jarrett Johnson: Large eye-size frames are back. Having been in business for 33 years it is always so interesting to see fashion repeat itself. Cat eyes are also back, bright and bold colors. Another trend is the emergence of young entrepreneurs promoting new independent frame lines on social media. The numbers of new entrants in this space has definitely increased.
WWD: What are some of the biggest changes, either trend-wise or in the business space, that you’ve faced in the last five years?
J.J.: The biggest change for me in the business space is staffing. The new generation of workers and their commitment/dedication “to work” has really affected my office as a small business. Also, the cost of goods has increased and our ability to offset these increases has been difficult due to competition from large brick-and-mortar stores and online retailers.
WWD: What are you on the lookout for at Vision Expo this year?
J.J.: We are looking for independent brands and unique frames. There is a saturation in urban areas with “mall brands” and we would like to introduce some unknown brands to our office.
WWD: Talk about the challenges of operating a small optical business in today’s world.
J.J.: Operating a small business can be tough due to competition. However, providing personalized service resonating with our customers has been the key to our 33 years of success.
Store: Gregory’s Optical, Providence, Rhode Island
Year opened: 1989
Proprietor: Michael Sirota
Key brands carried: Theo, Ann and Valentine, Silhouette, IcBerlin, Lafont, BlackFinn, Oliver Peoples, Persol and Alan Mikli.
WWD: What are some trends you are seeing now in the optical frame space?
Michael Sirota: Plastic inserts and bright unconventional colors for both metals and plastics.
WWD: What are some of the biggest changes, either trend-wise or in the business space, that you’ve faced in the last five years?
M.S.: Basic tortoise styles are losing ground. We’re seeing less chunky, heavy frames sell now that this look has been beaten to death by Warby Parker and such. And there’s bling — or maybe it is our blingless neighborhood.
WWD: What are you on the lookout for at Vision Expo this year?
M.S.: We are looking for technology — new lens designs, coatings and materials. We are full-service so we are looking for tools, spare parts and machinery. In terms of frames, we are searching for new designers or new models from the brands we already carry.
WWD: Talk about the challenges of operating a small optical business in today’s world.
M.S.: We see a lot of incorrect prescriptions coming from doctor’s offices and very few people left who can work with their hands in this industry. Reliable labs are disappearing too, so we edge everything on the premises to make sure the glasses come out the way we like.
Store: Line of Sight; New York, New York
Year opened: 2020
Owner/proprietor: Dr. Jennifer Tsai
Key brands carried: Cartier, Dita, Matsuda, Mykita, Lindberg, Dior, Fendi, Celine, Ahlem, Kuboraum, Thom Browne and Caroline Abram
WWD: What are some trends you are seeing now in the optical frame space?
Dr. Jennifer Tsai: I am noticing a shift to interest in trendy but functional frames such as lightweight materials. In terms of shapes, geometric cat eye are becoming more popular this year and is very flattering, as well as rimless frames with unique lens shapes.
WWD: What are some of the biggest changes, either trend-wise or in the business space, that you’ve faced in the last five years?
J.T.: In the practice, I’ve seen an increase in multiple eyewear pairs used for different environments. Since the pandemic, more people have a hybrid work schedule, which means they spend time at home in their eyewear and may consider wearing their contacts to work with computer eyewear on top.
WWD: What are you on the lookout for at Vision Expo this year?
J.T.: I am looking forward to seeing new colorways when it comes to eyewear and would love to see how brands play with new shapes and styles. I am also excited to see new technology out on the market within the dry eye space.
Store: Fine Eyes; Ridgeland, Mississippi
Year opened: 1995
Owner: Cleve Barham
Brands carried: Matsuda, Barton Perreria, Anne et Valentine, Salt, Mykita, Maui Jim, Swiss Flex, Kawasaki, Ovvo Etnia Barcelona and Oliver Peoples
WWD: What are some trends you are seeing now in the optical frame space?
Cleave Barham: I’m starting to see the trend of optical frames going back to minimal (rimless and thin frames). Zyl frames are still popular with larger eye sizes.
WWD: What are some of the biggest changes, either trend-wise or in the business space, that you’ve faced in the last five years?
C.B.: My biggest challenge is Insurance companies. I don’t take assignment but it really has not affected my business that much. Fine Eyes is an optical boutique carrying the finest eyewear product this industry has to offer.
The challenge for operating a small business is what to do with all the chains and online optical. We give our customers the service and the product they want. I have to make a decision to adjust or not a pair of glasses that were bought elsewhere (fitted wrong) or online.
WWD: What are you on the lookout for at Vision Expo this year?
C.B.: I am constantly looking for new lines to add to my inventory whether to bring in my store now or in the future. Sometimes I will look at a new line to possibly bring in the store five years down the road. This year I have appointments with a few new vendors but will probably only bring in one new vendor. I am looking to take my price points (retail) higher.
Store: Socialite Vision; Palm Beach Gardens, Florida
Year opened: 2016
Owner: Dr. Adam Ramsey
Key brands carried: Chopard, Ethnicity, Modo, Eco, Gucci, Maui jim, Eyes of Faith and 0-Six
WWD: What are some trends you are seeing now in the optical frame space?
Dr. Adam Ramsey: The trend I see is a lack of creativity and more copycat styles. Most designers are afraid to take a risk and blame the lack of sales on customers, not that they are not reaching the customers that would appreciate the risks they take in unique styles. Designers need to look at the various skin tones that the product would be placed on. Smoked gray, clear and champagne all look the same on darker individuals. Lack of diversity, creativity and new inspiration is the trend I see.
WWD: What are some of the biggest changes, either trend-wise or in the business space, that you’ve faced in the last five years?
A.R.: The biggest change in the past five years is the expectations from customers in this Amazon age we are in. People expect the product at lightning speed, and lots of times the independent operators take the heat for things that are out of our control. When manufacturers and labs make mistakes we have to make it right with the customer and customers want to be made whole, even at a loss to the provider.
WWD: What are you on the lookout for at Vision Expo this year?
A.R.: I am looking for designers who want to bring color back to men’s frames in larger oversize eye sizes. I am looking for combinations of materials used with more detail in the design work. I want to be able for a customer to look at a frame and can tell why this frame is double the price of another without words needing to be spoken.
WWD: Talk about the challenges of operating a small optical business in today’s world.
A.R.: The challenge in the optical world today for independent operators is that we take all the risk in purchasing products, and manufacturers don’t stand behind their products as they used to. We showroom the product to thousands of customers; if clients don’t want it, then it’s our fault. The frames on display should not be paid for at full price since as soon as it sells, we are reordering, so we always keep the right amount on the board. Reps and brands need to research accounts and know if this is the proper placement and provide support for accounts that take a risk with them as well.