What people recognize most about a Roger Vivier accessory is the shiny buckle. This motif, part of the label’s rich history, has had an impact on design over the past 11 years under creative director Bruno Frisoni, first as a square version most famous on flats, and now in a rectangular shape.
Yet a certain conundrum arises when a designer wishes to move past a specific motif while, at the same time, preserving its heritage. It looks as if Frisoni has artfully jumped this hurdle for spring. He’s offered a new leather buckle woven into the design of a sandal called the Sexy Pilgrim and updated the Miss Viv bag with a monochromatic leather buckle.
These were the designer’s answer to “looking sexy for day by adding a classic to her wardrobe,” while beating the heat. Other strong elements included a color-blocked design influenced by Matisse’s “Jazz” series on a tote and a pattern called Palazzo on a wedge inspired by Seventies archives.
The archives also influenced a tall, flat gladiator style, featuring a tribal mask not so subtly worked into the design, which also harkened back to jewelry.
For evening, the designer kept to three bag shapes and then added embroidery, sequins and a coral design. Satin-embroidered evening sandals and the new Rendezvous wedge in metallic pink and red shone bright.