Trademark — the highly acclaimed line by Pookie and Louisa Burch — is ceasing operations, WWD has learned.
Trademark was founded as a ready-to-wear and accessories venture in 2013 but in 2016 narrowed its scope to focus on accessories. The label’s retailers were recently informed that their wholesale relationships would not be continuing. Resort 2019 product, which hit stores in recent weeks, will be Trademark’s final collection.
“After much consideration, Louisa and Pookie Burch have decided to take a pause from Trademark, their accessories label,” a spokesperson said in a statement to WWD. “As a result, resort 2019 will be the final collection. Louisa and Pookie are extremely thankful to their retail partners, talented team and loyal customers who have supported them along this journey.”
The label traded in a whimsical, urban prep aesthetic — utilizing unconventional color combinations and interesting materials — that earned it fanfare from downtown creative types and fashion insiders. Trademark’s shoe, handbag and jewelry designs were often early to trends. With a loyal, influential following, the label’s jewelry helped popularize a recent craze for Baroque pearls and its shoe line did a similar favor for mule shapes.
The Burch sisters were born into a fashion industry dynasty — their father, and primary investor, is Chris Burch; their stepmother is Tory.
Their label’s distinct approach lapped up a roster of blue-chip stockists including Net-a-porter, Bergdorf Goodman and Boon the Shop.
But while many of Trademark’s designs retailed for under $1,000, it’s understood that stores often still found the designs too expensive — suggesting that the Burch sisters reconsider their pricing model. Recent collections reflected this advice — with most bag and shoe styles dropping down to under $400, or about a 30 percent reduction.
Trademark had briefly operated a stand-alone, 2,600-square-foot shop in New York’s SoHo neighborhood, which closed upon the brand’s consolidation to accessories.
The mid-tier accessories category — to which Trademark was an early member — has quickly evolved from a novelty craze to a standard component of the accessories industry. Recently, retailers and designers have begun griping that the under-$1,000 bag market has become a particularly competitive space, with consumers now expecting high-fashion, high-quality product for a bargain price.