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As the video of an animated stallion indicated at the door, an equine motif was afoot at Tod’s spring presentation. Sure enough, Derek Lam saddled up hobo bags and totes with bits and buckles and contrasting leathers, suede or skins with leather, and such. Footwear-wise, slingback, peep-toe mules were a less obvious but just as chic use of the theme. For all the horseplay, however, the collection was hardly one-note. In his fourth season as creative director, Lam has been focusing on reidentifying the house. He struck a fine mix of loungey luxe gone sportif with slinky silk pants, some debut swimwear and a romper worn under a motocross jacket. Cohesion between clothes and accessories was key, thus there was a jewel-toned python jacket and terrific two-toned python bags, nylon bombers and treated-nylon totes, and so on. As for the rest of the collection, tweaks to the classic loafer, here shiny and streamlined, and strappier sandals, were updated just the right way.

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