Four collections to keep an eye on at the Couture show.
This story first appeared in the May 27, 2015 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Sophie Bille Brahe
Sophie Bille Brahe knows that nightmares are not always a bad thing. The Copenhagen-based designer will make her first Couture appearance with a collection derived from a particularly scary dream. “I was in a new flat and had to climb up a ladder — it was really a nightmare, it was so high,” she said. “[But,] the collection is now about going from something to another thing, from one place to another place.” Brahe strikes this balance with asymmetrical pieces rendered in diamonds, pearls and opals; Prices range from $1,000 to $8,100. Brahe took inspiration from Yoko Ono’s YES installation from the Sixties, creating ladder-shaped pieces in 18-karat gold, with some set with diamonds. “The whole collection is now somehow a dream world.”
For Deanna Hamro, the stone comes first. The Los Angeles jeweler, who specializes in one-of-a-kind pieces, starts the creative process with the stones, using them as inspiration. “The stones inform the design,” she said. “I’m not looking for the perfect stone…It’s about the color.” At Couture, visitors can expect to see opals, spinels, tourmalines, emeralds and milky diamonds. “I love stones with a personality,” Hamro said. Besides her one-off pieces, she’ll also show her Classic Collection of more accessible pieces using pearls and diamonds. “I expanded the availability [of the brand] so people could have more access,” Hamro said. The Classic pieces retail between $1,200 and $12,00, while one-of-a-kind pieces typically range between $6,000 and $18,000.
Yves Spinelli, designer of Spinelli Kilcollin, is branching into new categories for his first Couture appearance. “It’s a great time to show what we’re working on,” he said. He’s known for interlocking stacks of rings, but at Couture, he’ll offer necklaces, earrings and bracelets, as well as the signature rings. “We designs around shapes — specifically circles,” he said. “All our new pieces have more than one way to wear them. It all works with our original concept.”
Among materials used in his designs, which range from $2,000 to $20,000, are 18-karat yellow and rose gold, sterling silver, black rhodium plating, and diamonds, both white and colored. “People are learning about fashion fine jewelry brands and realizing they want something less traditional, but still really well-made.”
After 15 years in business, Lito is coming to Couture. Designer Lito Karakostanoglou, based in Athens, will bring pieces representative of her design aesthetic, including some one-of-a-kind items.
“I love to do one-off pieces,” she said. “I love to find the stone and then make it work for a specific piece.”
From her recent collections, Karakostanoglou will show some Izel, a geometric range with colored and clear diamonds, and Tu Es Partout, which features lifelike renderings of eyeballs executed in enamel.
“It’s very emblematic of my designs,” she said of the latter group. “It has to do with protecting yourself and remembering that you have to live your life to the fullest in every moment.” Prices range from $500 to $7,000.