Delfina Delettrez’s seasonal jewelry presentation is always a Paris Fashion Week highlight. The jeweler, who can also rightfully claim the title “artist,” and sometimes “magician,” offers a unique approach to product and her inventive displays. This season’s invitation hinted at the presentation: “I’m glad you could drop in,” it read, with the word “drop” replaced by a plastic water drop.
Showing at her preferred Rue de Turenne gallery, Delettrez presented the pieces in small, recessed vitrines on the walls of the dark gallery, the boxes lit to spotlight the jewels. Inside each box was a stream of water, which appeared to drip in slow motion, ultimately into a spout at the bottom of the vessel. The water droplets joined together to form bigger drops, seemingly suspended in midair. The designer never reveals the technologies she uses to create such illusions, but offered, “It’s less scientific than you think. You might see this same treatment in a nightclub.”
A few of the vitrines spouted refreshments, like water or vodka; guests held missile-shaped glasses with ring handles under the slow streams to fill up.
As for the jewelry, the focus was on stones, ranging from semiprecious to precious. Her starting point and inspiration for the drops of water came from Paraiba stones, which she used for the first time. These appeared in her multitier “piercing” earring that evolved in a shoulder-grazing style as well as a choker necklace. Fully articulated, the necklace can be worn two ways: stone side or metal side facing outward on the collar bone. A new offer was what Delettrez called the “virus” — a large pearl, gold ball or agate ball that sits just inside the ear with a chain that can attach to another earring. Her “air-clipse” motif — an imperfect circle — was expanded into multipiece designs to become a three-ring bracelet cuff, a ring or hanging earring with signature lip and eye or marquise-cut diamond nestled in the small oval space where the circles overlap.
Finally, her ABC collection featured a sliced sphere of semiprecious stones like peridot, aquamarine or amethyst with a gold backing meant to be engraved with initials or personal details like blood type — “like a precious passport.”