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PARIS — Naming her latest Dior Joaillerie collection Dear Dior, designer Victoire de Castellane riffed on Fifties costume jewelry that mimicked real stones, playing on the concept of “all the fakes becoming real.” For the eight sets of earrings, rings and bracelets, in addition to three singular rings, de Castellane sourced rare gems with natural colors so unconventional and intense, they looked tinted. Blue-lagoon apatites and khaki heart-shaped sphenes, for example, were used on earrings, while a fire opal shined on a ring.

This story first appeared in the July 5, 2012 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

The green, purple and turquoise hues on another ring — set with platinum, yellow gold, diamonds, black opals, amethysts, emeralds, demantoid garnets, sapphires and turquoise — made it look decidedly Fifties, while other pieces with intricate gold latticework and rainbow tones resembled Indian jewelry. “There’s a bit of Bollywood, a bit of Russia,” noted de Castellane. Each delicate item was backed with gold lace, duplicating the design of archive laces used by Christian Dior on couture gowns circa 1947 to 1957. So fragile, many of the baubles are a complex feat of engineering.

In addition to the one-of-a-kind pieces, Dear Dior also includes a capsule line of reproductions designed in the same spirit, yet in smaller sizes.

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