PARIS — Dior has more to say about roses. It’s set to be a lasting season for the beloved, prickly stemmed beauty with the unveiling of the house’s largest high jewelry collection this week in Chengdu, called “Dior Rose.” In March, designer Victoire de Castellane showed figurative pieces drawn from the flower theme in a collection dubbed “RoseDior” — a decade after the house’s “Bal de Roses” collection.
Here, she switched gears again — de Castellane is known for moving between abstract and figurative styles — and broadened the territory, offering 116 pieces. The roses come in all styles: romantic, abstract and, nudging the theme forward, futuristic.
On the romantic side, a necklace and earrings set in white gold featured paved petals in hues of blue, green and purple — relayed through sapphires, emeralds and amethysts and in white gold, with curled up leaves in green and a subtle folds in the petals.
Other pieces drew on a “stained glass” theme, with green flowers anchored by emerald centerpieces, outlined with rows of white diamond paving, and, for the earrings and rings, punctuated with baguette diamonds.
De Castellane used opals to project a futuristic look, offering a black opal surrounded by a sprinkling of round-cut stones in a pale periwinkle color, shades of greens and white — diamonds, sapphires, tsavorite garnets and emeralds. Abstract pieces included a gold and diamond necklace with a golden, cultured pearl as a centerpiece and a pink ring paved with sapphires and rubies.
The collection also included lace-like abstract couture pieces, built from symmetric rows of round-cut diamonds.
Playing with asymmetry, Gem Dior pieces carried diamonds cut in various sizes and shapes.
The collection debuted at the Chengdu Contemporary Image museum, at a diner with 120 guests. Models weaved through the tables, wearing draped dresses designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director for women’s collections at Dior.
In order to reach deep-pocketed clients grounded from travel by the pandemic, Place Vendôme jewelers have been shipping their pieces to China, serving clients in their home markets. Last year, Dior presented de Castellane’s bright tie-dye-inspired jewelry collection to Shanghai, showing it on models wearing Grecian couture looks designed by Chiuri.