As legacy jewelry maisons continue to dominate the world of haute joaillerie, a handful of newcomers bring a modern, wearable sensibility to fine jewelry. A thoughtful focus on new-world luxury concepts, with designs geared toward self-purchasing women or consumers with an appreciation for handcrafted understatedness, could help this new jewelry crew take on the old guard.ProunisJean Prounis’ namesake Prounis collection launched in late October, but her signature “Nona” earring design has already been reordered twice by the cult Brooklyn jewelry shop Catbird.Formerly the studio assistant to Jemima Kirke, Prounis is inspired by ancient goldsmithing techniques. The New York-based designer uses a unique 22-karat alloy to handcraft each piece. “The malleability of 22 karat allows the jewels to shape to the wearer. Each of our pieces begins with a matte finish but over time, the wearer’s skin oils polish the metal – creating a lustrous shine,” she said of the material.Prices start at $290 for a single stud, exceeding $13,000 for a handwoven gold chain. Additional designs include cabochon pendants, South Sea pearl necklaces, and a modern rendition of trade rings – a historical style that was once used as a form of wearable currency.“I appreciate longevity and I express that in the materials I use and the pieces I create. I design with the hope that a piece will exist for 1,000 years,” Prounis said.Alice CicoliniCicolini’s colorful and dynamic designs have earned her a clientele that she proudly describes as “women buying for themselves.”“It’s women who are confident of their aesthetic and interested in jewels that resonate culturally, materially or in terms of the techniques,” she said of her client base, which can range in age from 16 to 70.The designer, based in London, began her brand after graduating from Central St. Martins, and was attracted to the medium because “jewelry feels like the perfect environment for me, situated somewhere between fashion, art and craftsmanship.” With unconventional stone combinations, a delicate use of enamel and an attention to silhouette, Cicolini creates ethereal, whimsical designs.Her feminine, romantic pieces — sold at Dover Street Market, Rare Market in Seoul and Browns in London — are priced from 500 pounds to in excess of 20,000 pounds, or $657 to $26,300-plus at current exchange. “I’m focused working on the concept of slow luxury, celebrating the beauty of ancient master craft and privileging artisanship alongside fine materials,” said the designer.Raphaele CanotCanot’s brand has experienced a quick ascent. But her recent success follows an equally illustrious 18-year career designing for Cartier and De Beers. “Jumping from a creative director role in a prestigious maison to a creative entrepreneur role is liberating, scary and exciting…a wonderful cocktail for feeling inspired!” the London-based designer said.With prices ranging from $1,500 to $10,000 and the average hitting around $2,500, Canot’s bright and enameled jewelry have earned her a clientele that she describes as “free-spirited; she knows what suits her. She lives her life with a happy elegance.”Canot’s signature design — a bangle shaped like lips, enameled in red with a perimeter set in diamonds — has earned her a hefty stockist roster that includes Barneys New York, MatchesFashion.com, and Dover Street Market, among others. “They give me the scene my brand needs to grow and the confidence to do what I do best: effortless chic and spirited diamond jewelry for daily wear,” Canot said.Sarah HendlerHendler’s bauble-type approach to fine jewelry has earned her a whimsical reputation. Her signature Ethel ball ring is like a precious-set disco ball for the hand. Largely composed of 18k gold that is often enameled in bright tones, Hendler’s Los Angeles-based brand has grown to include a full range of pinky rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets. Her objective is to “make something people love to see, feel and wear. Beyond a trend, something that will withstand the test of time.” Prices range from approximately $650 to $15,000 with merchandise sold at stores including Bergdorf Goodman and Broken English.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion