VICENZA, Italy — “In 2019 we registered a positive growth,” said Guido Damiani, president of Damiani Group, one of the Italian jewelry houses showcasing their collections at international trade show VicenzaOro. “The vibe coming from the industry is good, also considering that LVMH has recently invested $16 billion to acquire Tiffany and that Richemont’s jewelry division grew twice compared to the watch department.”
While concerns continue to circulate about the high price of gold, which reached its peak earlier this month, and the international instability in key areas of the world remain, including Hong Kong, one of the most important markets for jewelry trading, the mood was upbeat at the trade show, which registered more than 35,000 visitors during its six days. In particular, the number of buyers and professionals coming from the U.S. and Japan rose 30 percent and 22 percent, respectively. Italian attendees increased 12 percent, while visitors from Asia grew 4 percent.
“I think VicenzaOro has taken the right direction,” said Fiammetta De Simone, creative director of De Simone. “I really hope it will manage to take all the opportunities to become the real European jewelry trade show leader, also considering the crisis that Baselworld is facing.”
De Simone this year will make its official debut at the couture trade show in Las Vegas. “I think that the United States is an extremely interesting market for our company, especially because in the U.S. the Italian aesthetic and quality are particularly appreciated,” said De Simone, referring to the eye-catching, luxurious and sophisticated Mediterranean spirit injected in the brand’s creations.
The label, which is also a manufacturer, specializes in flamboyant jewelry, where high-end corals and turquoises are combined with diamonds and colored gems. At VicenzaOro, De Simone put the focus on its highly feminine and refined Butterfly range of pieces matching coral and turquoise with sparkling diamond details. In the following months, De Simone will also bring its creations to the Hong Kong trade shows. “It’s a very delicate moment there,” said De Simone. “It’s a key market for the jewelry industry, but we are seeing less people at the important events. We really hope that the situation will go back to normality soon.”
The fair took place before the coronavirus crisis became widespread in China, so industry executives did not address its impact on the sector. During the fair, however, shares of luxury goods groups fell sharply as analysts grew concerned over the impact the health crisis will have on consumer spending in the region.
But the country is a major focus for the Damiani Group, which along with opening three stores in the area under the Damiani luxury moniker will also this year debut the Salvini premium line in the market, Damiani revealed, adding that the group also has expansion plans for the Rocca retail network. “We are considering the opportunity to acquire small retail businesses to strengthen our network,” said Damiani, adding that the Rocca label registered double-digit grow in 2019.
Product-wise, Damiani revamped its best-selling D.Side jewelry line, designed in collaboration with Brad Pitt and celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. The elegant and minimal range was expanded with the addition of bridal rings, crafted from gold in the three tones of rose, yellow and white and sometimes enriched with diamond pavés, as well as cuffs. The D.Side line also unveiled bracelets, rings, earrings and pendants showcasing a synthetic red stone. Prices range from 1,380 euros for rings to 2,490 euros for earrings.
Part of the Damiani Group, the Salvini premium label introduced a line centered around the infinity symbol, which served as the focus of gold yellow and white yellow and diamond pavé necklaces and bracelets. Featuring a unisex look, the infinity symbol is also used in the men’s range, where customers can decide to match the charm with a variety of bracelets in steel, rubber and leather. The “Infinity” collection ranges from 750 euros to 1,600 euros for women and from 500 euros to 1,200 euros for men.
Signaling the continual attention of Italian jewelers to the Asian market, for the Chinese Year of the Rat, Roberto Coin created a pink gold and diamond piece, featuring a ring in the shape of a mouse with a long tail wrapping around the wrist. At VicenzaOro, the brand also launched a new version of its best-selling Princess collection, which is enriched with flapper-inspired delicate gold fringes punctuating yellow gold and diamond necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings. In keeping with the Twenties inspiration, the jeweler introduced the Art Deco collection, showing versatile, transformable pieces where pink gold is matched with three gems: malachite, black jade and mother-of-pearl. In addition, the brand, which has recently opened stores in Venice and Baku, Azerbaijan, unveiled Petals, a collection combining white gold and diamond pavés, or polished yellow gold and diamonds, which exudes delicate femininity.
At Chantecler, a maximalist aesthetic took center stage. Inspired by the lively, cheerful and chic spirit of Capri, the Capriness reversible necklace, combining silver and blue enamel, showed Fifties bold volumes, while the new Capriness bell charms featured stripes in a color palette evoking the signature tones of the island’s legendary La Fontelina beach club. Along with expanding its ready-to-wear collection, Chantecler, which operates stores in Milan, Capri and Tokyo, is putting the focus on high jewelry. For example, at VicenzaOro the brand showcased a string of red corals valued at 180,000 euros, as well as a ring including a 35-carat sapphire combined with opals and diamonds.
New York-based designer Netali Nissim expanded her line of joyful and colorful jewelry pieces, showing positive symbols, such as the eye and the Fatima hand for protection, as well as the lips for love, with a new range of silver and enamel designs. The brand, which is distributed in around 40 stores globally — spanning from well-known stores such as Lissa Fine in New York and several London Jewelers locations to high-end fashion retailers, including Luisa Via Roma in Florence and Gio Moretti in Milan — is making its debut at Harrods in London this March. “I’m definitely flirting with the idea of opening my own stores, but it’s a big commitment,” said Nissim, revealing that her native Milan or New York, where she resides, would be the ideal locations for the brand.