For Lavinia Fuksas, one of the consequences of the pandemic is the emergence of a new need for lightness, uncomplicated messages and spontaneous authenticity.
“We are surrounded by uncertainty and, because of this, I felt it was time for me to be brave and dedicate myself to what I love,” said Fuksas, 27, the daughter of Massimiliano and Doriana Fuksas, the couple behind some international architecture milestones, such as Vienna’s Twin Tower, Milan’s Rho-Fiera trade show venue and the Peres Center for Peace in Jaffa, among others.
Raised surrounded by constant creative stimulus, Fuksas’ background spans from economic studies at Milan’s Bocconi University and a fashion master degree at Manhattan’s Parsons School of Design to an extended internship with Azzedine Alaïa and an ongoing collaboration with her family’s Studio Fuksas, where she takes care of business development.
“Aiming to develop and express my own creative identity,” Fuksas found in the jewelry sector the arena where she could shape her ideas. A few years ago she established with Alessandro Grimoldieu the AdMater jewelry label, but Fuksas is now going solo, debuting a line bearing her name.
“I thought it was time to put myself out there for this project, which actually deeply reflects my own idea of beauty, that in my mind is something residing inside of us,” said Fuksas, explaining the idea behind her collection. “I wanted to create something aesthetically powerful, but discreet at the same time. I use precious conflict-free gems but there is no show off.”
In tune with her architectural background, Fuksas plays with geometric shapes, balancing weights and lines for designs, including earrings, necklaces and rings, where gold is combined with emeralds, tourmalines, mother-of-pearl and other gems.
“I decided to use only gold as a metal because I wanted to stick to an idea of sustainability,” said Fuksas, reflecting a sensitivity toward environmental responsibility which defines the new generation of creatives she belongs to. “First of all, using only one metal I avoid extra waste, and second, gold is durable and valuable. I want to create pieces that someone can ideally wear forever and that don’t lose their value.”
Positioning the brand in the fine jewelry segment, the Lavinia Fuksas creations range in price from 1,200 euros up to 40,000 euros for the most special pieces.
In addition, reflecting the designer’s desire to find a balance between timeless quality and modernity, she creates her pieces through 3-D printing that enables her to develop sustainable resin molds that can be directly sent to casting without intermediate phases.
Although the brand is headquartered in Paris, all pieces are made in high-end factories in Rome, which work with leading prestigious jewelers. “I’m very proud of this. When I decided to launch this new brand, it was clear in mind that I didn’t want to compromise on quality, even though I’m self-financed and I’m putting all my resources into this,” Fuksas said.
The designer explained that the brand will mainly focus on a direct-to-consumer business model, boosted by the online shop, but that special collaborations will be created with exclusive stores, including 10 Corso Como.
Asked about the commercial potential of the brand, Fuksas said she was fully aware that, because of the brand’s high positioning, the Far and the Middle East might be the most appealing and interesting markets for the label. “I really hope to sell in Europe, too, maybe more entry price products,” said the designer, who is setting up a made-to-measure service to develop commissioned products.
Fuksas revealed that she is organizing a charity event, which might take place in February, during which a Lavinia Fuksas special jewelry piece will be auctioned with proceeds going toward Rome’s Spallanzani hospital, which is in the frontline in the battle against COVID-19.