MEXICO CITY — Mexico’s Tane has launched a jewelry capsule collection by Iris Apfel.
The line involves 25 pieces of mainly silver-and-wood chains, bracelets and rings starting at $110, based on current exchange, for a basic Astoria Ring, to $2,968 for an Astoria Triple Short Necklace.
The collection marks Tane’s first celebrity collaboration. Owned by El Palacio de Hierro, Tane sells upscale silverwork and jewels in the department-store’s corners.
Employing the nonagenarian “was a risk,” admitted Tane creative director Nino Bauti. “She is very well-known; you see her, you don’t forget her.” But in Mexico, “she doesn’t have a following like in Europe or the U.S.”
Still, Bauti said using “an anti-celebrity that’s also a celebrity with a very interesting story behind her” should resonate with Tane’s customers, many of whom also buy aspirational luxury at El Palacio de Hierro.
The range fuses Apfel’s “maximalist style with Tane’s minimal yet refined silverworks” to create a unique symbiosis, according to Bauti. While targeting all women, its heavy focus on chains stems from Apfel’s love of chains and chain links. It also features 9.25-grade Mexican silver and machiche wood, which comes in honey and reddish tones and is grown in southern Mexico.
“I am a great admirer of chains; I do chains of all kinds but haven’t done them with precious metals before,” Apfel told WWD. She was due to stay over the weekend to visit Mexico City’s Anthropology and Frida Kahlo museums, as well as the city’s vast crafts and artisan markets, where she hopes to draw inspiration. Apfel visited Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula years ago but this was her first time in the capital.
“I know chains are popular in Mexico, so we decided to improvise, to do a number of designs that combined silver with wood, which hasn’t been done very much before,” Apfel said.
The collection was unveiled at Tane’s 3,500-square-foot flagship in El Palacio de Hierro’s new Polanco luxury emporium. Mexican business holding Grupo Bal, which owns El Palacio de Hierro, bought Tane four years ago. Since then, the firm has grown to operate 22 doors, mainly El Palacio corners but also stand-alone stores.