Amid coronavirus lockdowns, watch and jewelry labels have had to focus on digital channels for new product releases. A number of brands are postponing product launches originally scheduled for July until September, while others have forged ahead, beefing up online platforms for better viewing. The Watches & Wonders trade show in Geneva, originally scheduled to take place in April was canceled as Swiss authorities banned large gatherings, but some participating brands showed new pieces through the event’s online channel, and bolstering their own presence with new digital platforms, including Cartier. Online, the Watches & Wonders platform recorded 55,000 visitors from 180 countries, according to organizers.
In an environment of upheaval, purveyors of watches and jewelry tend to emphasize the investment value of such products. Others are pointing to the pick-me-up merits of new pieces.
Here are some highlights of recent releases:
Revisiting Frédéric Boucheron’s obsession with peacock feathers, the historic house’s “Plume de Paon” ring features a prominent, rose-cut diamond surrounded with paved diamonds.
Adding to its “Clash de Cartier” pieces, a major jewelry pillar introduced in 2019, colorful new amazonite rings and bracelets project the line’s boldness with signature spikes, while maintaining a sensual, feminine register.
The label’s “Privé Bouton” ladies watches pay homage to Gabrielle Chanel’s fascination with buttons, and in a nod to her signature tweeds, are set in a tweed cuff bracelet. Other versions feature the camellia flower delineated with diamonds and a golden lion head.
The “Légende” medallions feature motifs linked to the history of the house, including the Lys pendant in gold, featuring a lily set against lapis lazuli that recalls the intense blue that is the label’s signature.
Recent additions to the “Leaves of Love” collection juxtapose stylized ivy leaves delineated in paved diamonds with malachite, adding playful movement to the pieces.
The label’s “Idylle Blossom” pieces feature delicate renditions of the house symbol.
Marie-Hélène de Taillac:
Mixing colored stones on her “Princess D” ring, the designer noted the constant change in colors according to the light gives off a magical light effect.
The “Lucky Move” necklace is meant as a talisman featuring the label’s signature moving diamonds, and can be engraved with personal messages.
Pomellato’s “Fantina” collection draws on equestrian influences — the name refers to female jockeys in Italian — with curved, sculptural pieces that carry an air of minimalism.
Repossi has engraved its two-banded ring from the Berbere collection with “Care” in reference to its support of the humanitarian organization which supports vulnerable communities with food and hygiene kits. The label has also recently forged a partnership with the MoMA to support the Donald Judd exhibition.
Rosa de la Cruz:
The London-based label, run by former attorney Rosa de la Cruz and former Harper’s Bazaar fashion director Tierney Horne, drew inspiration from David Shrigley’s ‘Be Nice’ prints to create an upbeat, light-hearted fine jewelry collection all about colored gemstones and child-like motifs. A rainbow-shaped oversized ring featuring pearls, diamonds and colored stones like rubies and sapphires, was among the highlights.
Stephen Webster revisited “Crystal Haze,” the collection that helped his career take off over 25 years ago and re-created a modern-day version, dubbed “CH2,” which includes more day-appropriate stacking rings featuring diamonds mixed in with turquoise, white opalescent and falcon’s-eye stones, cut sharply in line with their natural shape.
Suzanne Kalan continued to play around with her signature baguette diamonds and update her popular eternity rings with pastel-hued diamonds, emeralds and sapphires, drawing inspiration from the colorways that dominate the spring 2020 catwalks.
Van Cleef & Arpels:
The latest jewelry from the “Frivole” line, known for stylized flower petals, includes paved diamond earrings with a pink sapphire center piece and a secret watch adorned with golden petals.
Brazilian accessories designer Vanda Jacintho has been furthering her sustainability mission with her latest collection, which embraces the designer’s usual flair for statement pieces. The range features a series of pieces created using new techniques such as oxidising metal earrings in vinegar and potato chips.