MILAN — Milan’s arty Brera district resonates with Pomellato in more ways than one.
To wit, the Italian jewelry firm, controlled by Kering, is unveiling a new collection called Brera during Milan Fashion Week, which will be available starting in May.
“The collection pays homage to the history of the brand, which began in Milan’s Brera district where founder Pino Rabolini met with artists, photographers and intellectuals, often at the storied Bar Jamaica,” said Vincenzo Castaldo, creative director of Pomellato. “It was an alternative and avant-garde context of experimentation.”
The late Rabolini, who hailed from a family of goldsmiths, founded Pomellato in 1967, and, inspired by Pierre Cardin and the arrival of ready-to-wear in the Sixties, he thought he could apply the same concept to jewelry.
In another nod to the brand’s history, Castaldo turned to one of Pomellato’s symbolic motifs, the chain, revisiting it in a modern way and a much lighter weight.
“Since its inception, Pomellato has reinterpreted and innovated its bold, sassy chains through its goldsmiths’ savoir-faire,” said chief executive officer Sabina Belli. “Today with Brera, the iconic gourmette chain transforms itself into whisper-thin gold bracelets, rings and chains that are like a second skin.…The very essence of this new collection, young and with a playful versatility to embody the vibrancy of the Milanese district where the vision of Pomellato was born over 50 years ago.”
A necklace that becomes a choker through the use of a clasp as a design detail embodies the playful versatility Belli referenced. Castaldo also played with matte and shiny surfaces and bas-relief effects on each side of the flexible pieces.
The collection also includes rings, bracelets and earrings in white and rose gold, also lit up by delicate white or brown diamonds.
The chains in the Eighties were “more sensual, bold and in sync with the trend of those years,” said Castaldo, but the goal was to reinterpret them and make them “more ethereal, as silk or a tattoo on the skin.” The effect is that of a younger-looking jewel, one that fits with Castaldo’s idea of “an almost intimate and private relationship with one’s jewelry.”
He admitted this is “new territory compared with the abundance and exuberance” Pomellato generally explores, one that is known for its “feminine sensuality, no corners and no geometric figures,” he said.
Castaldo started working for Pomellato in 2002 with his predecessor Sergio Silvestris. “Please mention him, he is my mentor,” Castaldo said.
Following Kering’s acquisition of Pomellato in 2013, Castaldo became creative director the following year. “It is very important to work within the perimeters and identity of the brand without abandoning its character, approach and attitude of daily ready-to-wear,” he said.
The delicate reinterpretation of Pomellato’s chains is expected to work well with the all-important Asian market, noted Castaldo.
Retail prices range from 1,600 euros for a chain with pendant, to 11,000 euros for a choker with a diamond pavé.