MILAN — Pomellato’s signature Nudo style has grown up, turning 20 this year, but it retains its contemporary design, according to creative director Vincenzo Castaldo.
“The world of jewelry has evolved in an arena that is more crowded, but it’s fascinating to see how Nudo has remained contemporary, perfectly in harmony with the times, which is not a given,” said Castaldo. The designer prefers to use the adjective contemporary rather than modern, which he believes is a term that characterizes something that “can grow old.”
Nudo, he underscored, continues to be “a point of reference and an object of desire,” a key design for Pomellato, which was founded by the late Pino Rabolini in 1967. Rabolini translated the concept of ready-to-wear into jewelry, introducing the idea of pieces worn on a daily basis and chosen by women for themselves. “Nudo has marked a change in the industry, and if you contextualize its birth in the period, it consolidates its success,” continued Castaldo, who joined Pomellato in 2002 and was named creative director in 2015, two years after the company was sold to Kering.
He compared Nudo to a “credible ambassador that represents Pomellato, it’s a reassuring symbol that incarnates the values of the brand.” While the design of the Nudo rings is “minimal and essential,” the fact that they can be stacked and combined in different colors creates a relationship between the brand and customers, who can “build their own history, buying different colors for different moments of their lives,” he contended. The stones on the Nudo rings appear to float thanks to a fixing-system concealed inside the collet at the base of each stone, which is softly faceted by hand in an asymmetric pattern.
Marking the 20th anniversary, Pomellato has introduced Nudo Chocolate and Nudo Gelé and a new bangle-style bracelet that offers five different gemstone combinations and diamond details.
The Nudo Chocolate rings are set with moonstones and diamonds in three different shades of brown. There are three different versions of the Nudo Chocolate rings and earrings: A maxi-size ring with a dark brown moonstone; a rare orange moonstone shines out in the original classic size ring reminiscent of smooth milk chocolate; and the petit ring with a creamy brown moonstone in the lightest tone.
In the bracelet, the double-sized Clessidra, or hourglass cut, gives volume and presence to the gemstones that are girded at the center with a band of gold. The bracelet is offered in five colors, all complemented with diamonds, and include the Sky Blue topaz and the London Blue topaz. For the two lighter gemstone options, depth of color is achieved by creating doublets: White topaz is enhanced with mother of pearl, while rose quartz is combined with a slice of chalcedony. Dramatically dark obsidian is flanked by black diamonds.
The Gelé finish is achieved by applying a satin polish to the top of the softly faceted gemstones, conveying a frosted effect. The Nudo Gelé is made up of double or even triple layers of different stones. A slice of chrysoprase set beneath lemon quartz adds vibrancy and intensity in the Gelé Nudo ring and earrings. For example, fine layers of turquoise and mother-of-pearl add a shimmering nuance to Sky Blue topaz.
Nudo Gelé also offers matching earrings as well as a pendant. Each jewel is crafted in Pomellato’s in-house atelier in Milan from 100 percent responsibly purchased gold.