A growing number of women’s timepieces shown in Basel were directly inspired by runway creations.
This story first appeared in the April 6, 2015 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Dior divided its offerings into ready-to-wear and haute couture. For day, the Dior VIII Montaigne came in a spring 2015 edition in steel with a dark blue dial on a white calfskin strap, marking the introduction of seasonal timepieces at the house.
The striking Dior VIII Grand Bal Pièce Unique “Envol” N°5 also mirrored the streamlined collections of Dior artistic director Raf Simons. The dial featured an oscillating weight embellished with a swoosh of bright-yellow lacquer and baguette-cut diamonds, set against a backdrop of strips of green scarab beetle.
Having taken over its watch licensee Taramax in 2013, Fendi is increasingly aligning its timepieces with other categories.
The relaunched Selleria watch comes with interchangeable straps made from the same leather and featuring the same signature stitching as its namesake handbags. A limited-edition version comes with a geometric dial in mother-of-pearl, black lacquer and diamonds, inspired by a fur coat designed by Karl Lagerfeld in 1971. “All the components of Fendi have to speak the same language,” said Pietro Beccari, chief executive officer of Fendi, noting that the My Way watch, featuring a removable fox-fur collar, called a Glamy, not only appeared in the brand’s runway show, but is also featured in its spring rtw ad campaign shot by Lagerfeld.
At Louis Vuitton, the Emprise watch is available with straps in the brand’s signature Epi leather in two colorways that reflect Nicolas Ghesquière’s handbag designs for spring — a denim-blue color with yellow stitching, or a poppy red with tone-on-tone stitching. “The idea is that we keep the strength of the watch design, but we go for different inspirations in the company,” said Hamdi Chatti, vice president of fine jewelry and watches at Louis Vuitton.
Burberry introduced a limited-edition collection of four Britain watches inspired by the hand-painted leather pieces in Christopher Bailey’s spring collection for Burberry Prorsum. Only five of each model will be available worldwide.
Calvin Klein opted for bold bracelets in python-embossed leather for its Spellbound collection, which also links back to its handbag designs. “The idea for us to bring color and texture into the product is very important, but at the same time, it’s not very easy,” said Ulrich Grimm, creative director, shoes and accessories design at Calvin Klein. “Obviously the design is still on the face and on the case, but we’re also trying to expand a little bit beyond that, so not just have that on a classic black strap,” he said.