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Backstage at Creatures of the Wind Spring 2017

A bare-faced Nineties look inspired by PJ Harvey

Backstage at Creatures of the Wind was calm as far as backstages go, in line with the cool, Nineties girl ethos worked into the beauty look.

Mark Carrasquillo for Nars, inspired by PJ Harvey, created a bare-faced look for most models, with few sporting a bright red, matte lip. “We’re doing two different girls, but they’re best friends,” Carrasquillo said. “One girl is like really super raw, she’s an indie kind of cool girl, she has very little makeup.”

He used Nars Multiaction Hydrating Toner and lots of Luminous Moisture Cream, dotting Nars Total Replenishing Eye Cream on the lips. “I wanted the skin to feel really, like, out of the shower fresh,” he said. He dabbed minimal amounts of Stick Concealer on the girls to cover redness, with a touch of All Day Luminous Powder Foundation to give the skin a clean, even look. On the lids, he used Triple X Gloss, concentrating it by the lash line “so it feels a little sweaty.” For the natural lip, he used the liner closes to the models’ natural lip shade, filling it in to an overall matte effect. For the bold red, he used Dragon Girl Velvet Matte Lip Pencil, being careful not to let the line get too thin toward the corners of the lips, then used an eyeshadow brush to cover the lipstick with Exhibit A Blush — a bold fuchsia.

“The girls that have a lip, my inspiration was basically PJ Harvey,” Carrasquillo said. “There’s something super tough about it, but there’s something super great. Against all the bareness, it’s really working. Just think PJ Harvey at some music festival.”

For hair, Holli Smith for Bumble and bumble, left it either simple — tucked behind the ears and placed behind the shoulders — or messy-sporty — pulled into chignon’s behind a headband with on-purpose flyaways, for texture. “I really wanted to throw in some sort of sporty element in there,” Smith said. “We are doing the sporty thing by putting the headband in, which I think is just toughening up the girl…making her more sporty, a little sweaty in a way…with Thickening Spray and Surf Spray pulling out some of the edges, putting the headband right behind it, and picking up just a few hairs behind that, but not too much so it doesn’t get big and retro…and securing it in a chignon.” Then, Smith used Bumble’s Strong Finish Hairspray to keep those pieces in place.

Danielle Candido for Morgan Taylor created a high-gloss white nail using All White Now with the Make It Last clear coat to create “a statement without distraction,” she said. “We wanted to express the classic beauty, the collection kind of spans generations — she’s beautiful always, she matches everything wherever she goes — what better to match everything than white.”