The beauty look at Dior couture’s show for spring involved a mash-up of inspirations. There was Ruth Bell, the gender-bending model who appears with her sister in the fashion house’s recent advertising campaign.
“That’s the kind of girl that we tried to [create], but in a couture way,” explained Peter Philips, creative and image director of Christian Dior makeup.
Another influence was a charm-laden key ring Christian Dior, the designer, used to carry around. “The house of Dior has got a lot of superstitions, codes, lucky charms — all kinds of little symbols,” continued Philips. “So we took one of those lucky charms, which is a star, and brought it back in the makeup.”
Thus the choice of the tiny étoiles — some in black, while others in silver and gold — that spangled models’ faces. The stars were placed under their eyes or in the corner of peepers. “Some girls have a bit more fantasy, they have stardust all over the side of their face and little stars,” added Philips.
Among the key products he used for the look involving flawless-seeming skin included Diorskin Forever and Ever Wear Primer, Fluid Foundation and Perfect Cushion. There was also Diorblush in Rose Cherie, Diorshow Khôl High Intensity Pencil (launching in May 2017) and the just-introduced Dior Addict Lip Sugar Scrub Sweet Exfoliating Balm.
“There’s a toughness to it, a bit of an edginess, a rawness. But at the same time it’s very transparent and sheer,” said Philips, of the makeup effect, which he also described as seeming “very simple, almost elf-like.”
Some models walking the show were to wear masks, a nod to Dior himself, who had loved attending dress-up balls. All of their tresses were given a Pre-Raphaelite feel. “It’s very soft, romantic hair,” said Guido Palau.
He gave models a center part, then tissue-set curls — an old-fashioned technique. They were then loosened and brushed into a wave. “There’s enchantment to their hair,” said Palau, of the style that also involved a small section cinched back. “I wanted it to feel very light, to move.
“Maria Grazia Chiuri had lots of lovely pictures of these beautiful girls in this kind of enchanted space,” said Palau, referring to Dior’s artistic director.
He had those in mind in creating the look, for which he applied to clean hair Redken Windblown 05 and Guts 10 Volume Spray.