The Dior fashion collection was full of contradictions, such as a mix of patterns and prints, and asymmetry, according to Peter Philips, creative and image director for makeup at the house. So the beauty look followed suit.
“For the hair they went with something boyish; at the same time the buns are something girlish,” he said. “And in makeup [we] wanted to do something similar.”
He opted to place a strong focus on models’ lips, using a new shade he created, called Poison, for the Rouge Dior Lipstick line.
“It’s like a deep purple turning to black,” said Philips.
The trick was to keep mouths from looking too Gothic, especially with the black base used — Diorshow Pro Liner Waterproof.
“So I said, why don’t we add a high gloss?” said Philips, who explained a layer of Dior Addict Gloss in Bulle at the last minute would give a glamorous facet.
He applied coats of mascara for extreme volume, then twisted bits of lashes together for a deconstructed effect.
“It’s not like a beautiful fan of lashes, but a bit more punkish,” he said, also describing it as a “rebellious, clumpy, controlled-chaos lash.”
“All those little details make a bit of contradiction,” he continued.
Skin was left “almost like a blank canvas,” with a luminous yet matte finish.
Key products Philips used from the Dior makeup line included Diorskin Forever & Ever Wear Primer, Diorshow Maximizer 3-D and Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Waterproof Mascara.
Hairstylist Guido Palau, working with Redken, created a coif close to the head.
“It’s a nod a little bit to the Twenties or Thirties — that period especially with a black mouth,” he explained, pointing to the two small twists he fashioned on either side of the backs of models’ heads.
Palau said he wanted to create a graphic style with a charm, but that a classic chignon or messy ponytail didn’t feel right. Instead, Palau blow-dried models’ hair, gave it a side part and then made the little twists.
“It gives a slightly younger feel,” he said, adding it has a bit of a masculine bent, too. “It’s not like there’s any kind of movement in the hair; there are no fly-aways.”
For the look, Palau used Wax Blast 10 High Impact Finishing Spray Wax and Forceful 23 Super Strength Hairspray.