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Backstage at Haider Ackermann Spring 2016

Katsuya Kamo and Lynsey Alexander were behind the beauty look for the show.

Katsuya Kamo conceived dramatic, textured updos integrating brightly colored hairpieces and strands of silk – sometimes drawn across models’ faces – at the Haider Ackermann show.

 

“When they called me, they said: ‘Just come in with hair color’ and gave no other information,” said the hairstylist, who jetted in from Tokyo. Kamo decided on an elegant riff on punk.

 

He created gravity-defying tufts of blue, green, orange and yellow, which stood out defiantly from heads otherwise wound with strands of the models’ own hair, sometimes done up in small braids.

 

The multicolor approach wasn’t happenstance.

 

“This is the first time Haider has done a lot of color in his collection,” explained makeup
artist Lynsey Alexander, working with MAC Cosmetics. “There’s color in the hair, so we had to remove color from faces.”

 

Skin-tone was paled down, and then using Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Groundwork she contoured eyes, cheeks and lips. Eyes were made to look deeper with Cream Color Base in Root, causing models to appear “a little like ‘Sleepy Hollow,’ a little bit otherworldly,” she said.

 

Lashes were curled and gloss was applied over eyelids through the brows.

 

“It’s about opposites, contrasts,” she said of the look. “So matt versus shine, dark versus light.”