Skip to main content

Beauty Beat: First American Brands Revs Up for Fragrance Trio … Inter Parfums Sales Up 22% … Shiseido in Malaysia Deal

First American Brands Revs Up for Fragrance Trio

NEW YORK — Junior fashion label Rampage will launch its second fragrance, a women’s scent called Butterfly, in early May.

The initiative marks one of the...

First American Brands Revs Up for Fragrance Trio

NEW YORK — Junior fashion label Rampage will launch its second fragrance, a women’s scent called Butterfly, in early May.

The initiative marks one of the latest ventures by First American Brands, Rampage’s licensee. Concurrent with the Butterfly introduction, First American Brands will tap into the automotive realm by launching Ferrari Passion, a men’s scent. Additionally, the firm is continuing a rollout of Corvette, another automotive scent, which was launched in U.S. department stores in late 2003.

First American Brands is the three-year-old, New York-based subsidiary of Mozzate, Italy-based fragrance marketer Vapro International. Antonio Lemma, Vapro’s president, believes it was important to set up a U.S. subsidiary in order to maintain control of the business in this country. “A lot of brands come into the U.S. and give distribution to someone else,” he said. “I came here to [oversee] the business.”

Revenues at Vapro, which is half owned by Düsseldorf-based Marbert Holding, reached 50 million euros, or $65.3 million at average exchange rates, last year. Sales of First American Brands were $25 million for the same period. “Our target is to double the volume of First American Brands this year,” said Lemma.

Soon after Vapro landed the Rampage license, it launched the fashion brand’s first fragrance — a namesake women’s scent — in July 2003. The Rampage fragrance is now carried at 400 U.S. department stores, including Macy’s East, Bon-Macy’s, Burdines and Marshall Field’s locations. Plans call for Butterfly to be launched in 200 doors, including Macy’s East and Bon-Macy’s. It subsequently will be rolled out to about 650 doors by yearend.

Industry sources estimated Butterfly could generate from $8 million to $10 million in first-year retail sales in the U.S.

Butterfly, a mix of violet, jasmine, freesia, sandalwood and vanilla accords, is a “younger fragrance [designed] to capture a younger customer,” said Tom Burke, U.S. general manager of First American Brands. The scent, which was blended by International Flavors & Fragrances, comes in two versions: a 3-oz. eau de parfum for $52, and a 1.7-oz. edp for $40. Ancillary products include a $24, 6.8-oz. body lotion.

Related Galleries

You May Also Like

First American Brands plans to launch a regional radio campaign on rock stations in four markets to support Butterfly, which could involve Rampage apparel giveaways. There also will be scented pieces in retailer catalogues.

“[Internationally] Butterfly will probably have a similar distribution pattern to Rampage,” Burke said, noting that Rampage is carried in Russia, the Middle East, Japan, Italy and Germany.

Vapro landed U.S. distribution rights for Ferrari in early January. The U.S. launch of Ferrari Passion, which is the third Ferrari fragrance, will involve as many as 300 doors in the first half, including Macy’s West, Famous-Barr and Belk. Passion then will be rolled out to between 650 and 750 doors by yearend.

The scent could generate from $5 million to $6 million in first-year retail sales in the U.S., according to sources’ estimates. Passion features notes of citrus, spice, wood and leather. It comes in two sizes: a 3.4-oz. eau de toilette for $60, and a 1.7-oz. edt for $42. An aftershave balm, shave gel and deodorant are included in the collection.

Burke said Passion will be supported through promotions that could include putting Ferraris in stores in major markets, hosting consumers at Formula One races or even sending them to Maranello, Italy, where the sports cars are manufactured. Simultaneous with the U.S. introduction of Passion, there will be a “broad” international launch of the scent, Burke noted. That will be handled by Henkel KGAA’s Morris division and will include markets such as the U.K., Germany, Italy and Asia.

Vapro acquired the license for Corvette fragrances in 2002. Corvette, which was blended by Mane and features notes of juniper, bergamot, cinnamon, sequoia wood and musk, is carried in about 500 doors in the U.S. The 3.4-oz. ($50) and 1.7-oz. ($35) scents are being rolled out to Saks Fifth Avenue department store group locations and are expected to be carried in 800 doors by yearend.

First American Brands’ future plans include to-be-announced licensing agreements with two fashion designers and the subsequent launches of at least two associated scents next February.

“In a market that’s dominated by large companies,” said Burke, “if you have a marketing concept, quality product and patience, you can come into that market and be a player.”

“Our goal is to become a major [U.S.] distributor of European brands in the next three to four years,” Lemma said, “and, as a European company, develop American brands. We are not trying to take a chance. We’re here and planning the next 10 years.”
— Matthew W. Evans

Inter Parfums Sales Up 22%

NEW YORK — The popularity of prestige products in the first quarter of 2005 resulted in robust sales for Inter Parfums Inc., which reported first-quarter net sales of $71 million, up 22 percent from the same period last year. The firm, which owns licenses for Burberry, Christian Lacroix, Celine and Lanvin, noted in its preliminary sales report that the rollout of Burberry Brit for Men and Fever by Celine were critical for growth in the quarter. Although Inter Parfums suffered a 16 percent fall in mass market sales, its prestige products grew 29 percent. The company reaffirmed its guidance of $280 million in net sales in 2005, up 19 percent from 2004. Net income is expected to be about $15.8 million in 2005.
— Amy S. Choi

Shiseido in Malaysia Deal

TOKYO — Shiseido Co. Ltd. last week entered a joint venture with the parent company of its Malaysian distributor. The Tokyo-based cosmetics giant formed Shiseido Malaysia Sdn. Bhd. by joining forces with Warisan TC Holdings Berhad.

Shiseido entered Malaysia in 1958, and for the last 28 years, Tung Pao Sdn. Bhd., a unit of Warisan, has distributed its brands in that country.

Shiseido Malaysia is set to begin distribution operations on Sept. 1, pending approval from Warisan shareholders and the Foreign Investment Committee of Malaysia. The union is targeting sales of 3 billion yen, or $28.3 million at current exchange rates, within its first three years. Shiseido products are carried in about 70 Malaysian department stores and the Japanese firm plans to expand its presence in that channel. It also plans to grow its spa and salon business in Malaysia.
— Koji Hirano