PARIS — The 10th anniversary edition of trade show Beyond Beauty, held at the Porte de Versailles exhibition center here from Sept. 10 to 12, multiplied its areas of focus, adding a section dedicated to ethnic brands and targeting sustainable ingredients and green chemistry under the heading “a better world” with its BBLab section, which was designed to give ideas to both suppliers and brands by showcasing new technology.

The show attracted 21,100 visitors, a 5 percent decrease in footfall from 2011. International visitors accounted for 39 percent of the total. “What is more important is that the number of VIP visitors — the decision makers [such as major retailers] — represented 67 percent of total visitors, up from 63 percent last year,” Creative Beyond Beauty sales director Julie Cartigny asserted. “We have been working very hard on improving the quality of visitors we attract.”

In terms of exhibitors, meanwhile, the event drew 475 companies, up from 430 in 2011. Moreover, 64 percent of these were newcomers, reinforcing the belief that brands see the show as a launch platform for showcasing their product offer and attracting more distribution.

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Among the brands showing for the first time within the Zoom section was French firm Lady Green, a line of organic skin-care products for teenagers, which chose the show to launch its cute, brightly colored collection of seven references based on aloe vera and neem. “The line is 100 percent participative; 100 young people participated in its creation,” consulting scientist Adrien Vinat explained. The brand was given the Beauty Challenger Award for most promising emerging brand at a ceremony held during the show, chosen by a jury of 60 international beauty buyers.

Fragrance products were perhaps more visible than at previous editions. Among them, scented candle and bath product brand Jardins d’Ecrivains chose Beyond Beauty to launch its first fragrance, George, a unisex product inspired by George Sand created by brand founder Anaïs Biguine. “The fragrance has had a very positive reaction so far,” she said. The brand, launched in early 2011, now has some 80 points of sale, and was looking for new international distributors at Beyond Beauty. “We plan to launch across the U.S. before the end of the year with a distributor,” she added. The brand was also rewarded at the Beauty Challenger Awards, taking the beauty press prize as well as that of “Jury’s favorite.”

Within the new section Cosmeeting Color, U.S. brand Iman Cosmetics was present for the first time with Diouda, its distributor for France and the Middle East, which is also a direct seller of cosmetics for women of color. “We wanted to show that the brand is dynamic and innovative,” Diouda managing director and cofounder Myriam Gbaguidi Gambino said. “We do not normally do trade shows, but we wanted to see how it worked, and the fact that there was a dedicated space for similar brands was a plus.” The brand had attracted attention from a potential distributor in Singapore, she said.

On the supplier side, traffic was particularly brisk among ingredient manufacturers. French plant-extraction expert Berkem, which supplies brands including Caudalie, was part of the BBLab area. It showcased its new ingredients Fresh’Ka, made from strawberry plant leaves, which it claims brightens the complexion, and Origa’Light, made from oregano and used for its brightening and antioxidant properties.

Norwegian company ABT Aqua Bio Technology, showing in the same section, bases its ingredients on marine extracts such as fish roe, and includes Amway among its customers. “The trend in recent years has been for natural ingredients, but that has changed in the past year or so more towards sustainable ingredients, and we have seen growing interest [in our offer] over the past year,” said  sales and marketing director Fanny Coste.

“The BBLab section allows suppliers to express themselves differently, more creatively,” show director Cartigny commented. “We doubled the surface area of this section this year.”

Beyond Beauty also featured a packed schedule of 80 conferences over the three days. Among them, Leila Rochet-Podvin, founder of agency Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, gave a talk about Generation X consumers and their relationship with cosmetics. The presentation was based on a study in France, the U.S. and Japan that found that women born between 1960 and 1975 are often the “forgotten generation” for cosmetics marketers. Nevertheless, “it is one of the most promising segments at the moment,” Rochet-Podvin said, highlighting that in France, premium antiaging skin care sales rose 14 percent in 2011, ahead of the overall antiaging market.

As for future projects for the show, Cartigny said the organizers would be focusing on links with the fashion world. Interest in fashion was stoked by the growth in visitor numbers from apparel retailers especially. Also there has been an increase in product offerings suitable for mass retail, a category that also  saw a rise in visitor numbers.