Appeared In
Special Issue
Beauty Inc issue 12/10/2010

Hope in a jar gave way to meaningful innovation in 2010, with first-to-market technologies dominating the year’s most outstanding introductions.


This story first appeared in the December 10, 2010 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

Chanel Rouge Coco Hydrating Crème Lip Colour

Bring back lipstick! Such was the rallying cry of Chanel’s global creative director for makeup, Peter Philips, in early 2010. It was an audacious goal to be sure, given that lip gloss sales have steamrolled over lipstick in recent years. But by combining Philips’ unerring sense of creativity with its ace marketing team, Chanel made Philips’ vision a reality with the launch of Rouge Coco Hydrating Crème Lip Colour. The full-coverage formula, available in 30 shades (each named after a part of Coco Chanel’s life, natch) delivered both hydration and long wear. John Galantic, Chanel’s U.S. president, said at the launch that Rouge Coco was one of the house’s key items for the year and was expected to become an “iconic new makeup pillar.” It appears he was right. Noting that Rouge Coco was the number-one lip launch of the year, NPD’s Karen Grant said, “Chanel was able to break through the clutter and come out with a product that everyone is clamoring for.” —Jenny B. Fine

Skin Care
Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector

Clinique’s Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector, which launched globally in August, had a rather lofty goal: be the next-best thing to dermatologist-performed laser procedures at repairing UV damage and wrinkles. In fact, at launch, Lynne Greene, global president of Clinique, Origins and Ojon, claimed that when used for eight weeks, the product could replicate up to 63 percent of the benefi ts of a dermatologist procedure, with effects especially notable on women in their 20s and 30s. Powered by three patented repair enzymes encapsulated in a liposome-delivery system, Repairwear Laser Focus ties into a growing trend of products providing similar results to dermatologist procedures—an area that Clinique began pursuing last year with its best-selling Even Better Skin Tone Corrector. Retailing for $44.50 for 1 oz., industry sources estimated sales could reach $90 million globally in its first year on counter—a laser focus on sales, if ever there was one. —Julie Naughton

Hair Care
L’Oréal Professionnel Inoa

What better way to celebrate your centennial than with an innovation that you believe will take you into the next 100 years? That’s just what L’Oréal Professionnel did with the launch of Inoa—which stands for Innovation No Ammonia—the first professional ammonia-free hair color that lightens up to three levels, covers gray and has true-to-tone color results. Instead of ammonia, Inoa contains monoethanolamine, which traditionally doesn’t cover gray as well and can’t lighten. But by adding an oil-based gel to it, plus a cream developer, L’Oréal researchers determined it provides optimum results. The company staged a global launch with a 50-strong shade range, starting in Europe and cascading out to the U.S., Canada and South America. Today Inoa is in more than 70,000 salons in 45 countries. Executives were thrilled with its performance: During a third-quarter conference call, L’Oréal chief executive offi cer Jean-Paul Agon noted the professional sector was up 16.1 percent to $882.2 million despite the still-weak traffic in the U.S. “Salon traffi c hasn’t increased yet,” he said, “but we are doing better than the market, especially thanks to Inoa.” —J.B.F.

Womanity by Thierry Mugler

There’s femininity. Then, there’s Womanity. In true Thierry Mugler form, the designer and his licensee Clarins Fragrance Group have taken olfactive innovation one step further—thanks in part to fragrance supplier Mane. With a new molecular-extraction process by Mane, the scent juxtaposes sweet (think fig fruit) and savory (caviar). In a recurring theme, structure is provided by the woodsy elements of the fi g tree. Womanity marks Mugler’s fi rst major brand since Alien five years ago. The linchpin of Womanity, according to Clarins executives, is the evolving quest of women to express themselves and their ideas. The more women connect with each other, the more creativity is released. To that end, a metal frieze encases the bottle that features a face designed to symbolize women of all generations. At the launch, sources estimated Womanity could generate up to $90 million at retail in its first year. Mugler’s iconic Angel fragrance, another olfactive breakthrough, still generates an estimated $275 million in retail sales worldwide, and Alien does about 60 percent of that total. Female empowerment indeed. —Matthew W. Evans



Next: Mass market winners >>



Maybelline New York Instant Age Rewind Eraser Treatment Makeup

Addressing the trend that consumers want innovative ways to apply everyday items, such as foundation, Maybelline New York Instant Age Rewind’s unique micro-corrector applicator evolves the ritual of applying foundation from using fingers and makeup brushes to a one-of-a-kind patented applicator. The dome-shaped device is said to glide over wrinkles, making them virtually invisible. Aiding its efforts is the addition of collagen in the foundation’s formula, along with the Eraser’s millions of micro-fi bers, which helps coverage reach fine lines and wrinkles at the microscopic level. Eraser Treatment Makeup is the culmination of more than seven years of intensive research, and the product has received three patents. According to Maybelline New York, consumer response has been extremely positive, and figures from SymphonyIRI bear out the optimism: Instant Age Rewind Eraser is the number-one foundation launch for the year and the number-two single-product cosmetics launch of 2010 in the U.S. mass market. —Andrea Nagel

Skin Care
Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products Company for Bioelectricity Technology

In January, Johnson & Johnson rolled out one of its largest antiaging breakthroughs since retinol. Drawing on the benefits of bioelectricity, previously used in wound care, the technology harnesses the body’s own bioelectricity-signaling system to generate energy to the surface layers of the skin to help stimulate the renewal process. The introduction marked the first time J&J executed a global launch of a technology platform across its three premier beauty brands, Aveeno, Neutrogena and RoC, each of which applied the technology to its own unique market positioning, with Aveeno taking on a natural bent in Aveeno Ageless Vitality, Neutrogena adopting a clinical approach under Neutrogena Clinical and RoC promising near immediate results with RoC Brilliance E-Pulse. Each kit consists of a two-step system, with a serum or gel that contains the bioelectricity technology as step one, followed by a cream that helps activate the ingredients. J&J execs hoped the launch would electrify the market as well, even attracting prestige shoppers to mass aisles, and by yearend it seemed as if they were well on their way, with reported sales of about $20 million. —A.N.

Hair Care
Garnier Fructis Style Sleek & Shine Blow Dry Perfector 2-Step Smoothing Kit

Taking a cue from permanent and semipermanent salon smoothing treatments, which often cost upward of $300, Garnier this past summer launched Fructis Style Sleek & Shine Blow Dry Perfector, an at-home frizz-fighting version without the cost or commitment of salon offerings. Blow Dry Perfector, about $11.99, uses technology that employs cysteine, an amino acid found naturally in the hair that loosens but does not break the bonds in the hair strand, yielding effective yet temporary results that are less damaging to hair. The product has performed exceptionally well in stores, Garnier said, with sales results for the four weeks ending October 3 showing that Blow Dry Perfector was the number-one selling product for Garnier Fructis Style and one of the top five products across the entire styling market. Garnier’s marketing plan helped drive sales. Rather than a 30-second TV ad, the brand chose to run a 15-second direct-response TV spot that teased the product’s benefi ts of “seven washes of smooth, shiny frizz-controlled hair.” The spot drove consumers to the brand’s Web site to view a 2-minute video. Garnier also used a quick-response code in print ads, driving consumers to the same video, and featured the video in digital banner advertising. The result was tremendous buzz online and hundreds of thousands of views of the video. —A.N.


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