PARIS — Cerruti is hoping its next men’s fragrance will do a number for the Italian fashion house.

This story first appeared in the June 28, 2002 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

With Cerruti 1881 Amber, “we’re trying to reinforce Cerruti’s brand identity,” explained Rosy Giupponi, vice president of marketing at European Designer Perfumes, a division of Unilever Cosmetics International (UCI).

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“Cerruti 1881 Amber sets a nice foundation and platform for the future,” added Michael d’Arminio, vice president of creative at UCI’s European Designer Perfumes, of the first scent to be launched since the Cerruti fashion brand’s sale to Fin.part last year.

In Cerruti 1881 Amber, there are “elements coming from nature, still going back to the roots of the brand,” added d’Arminio. “We pushed sensuality, warmth and romance.”

UCI had conducted a survey, whose results showed the public wants “a younger, warmer version of 1881,” explained Giupponi, referring to the brand’s bestseller, Cerruti 1881 pour Homme, which was launched in 1990 and the company now considers a classic.

While 1881 targets the 30-plus audience, the new scent is expected to lure 25-to-30-year-olds. Marketers also think a consumer might use 1881 for daytime and Cerruti 1881 Amber for evenings.

1881 is a key men’s business for Cerruti. Its sales represent 25 percent to 30 percent of the brand’s volume. Cerruti is UCI’s second-best-selling prestige brand, behind Calvin Klein.

Cerruti 1881 Amber is set to launch in the U.K., Germany, Austria, the Netherlands, Switzerland, France, Italy, Greece, Spain and Portugal in October. It will then be introduced exclusively in Sephora in the U.S. in November. The full U.S. rollout and rest-of-world introductions will take place primarily in 2003.

While UCI executives would not discuss numbers, industry sources estimate the new Cerruti fragrance could generate sales of $12 million to $15 million in wholesale volume in the first 12 months.

As its name suggests, Cerruti 1881 Amber takes it cue from amber and other precious materials. It shares numerous characteristics with 1881. For instance, they have identical bottle shapes, although Cerruti 1881 Amber’s is amber colored, while 1881’s is clear. Olfactory-wise, both scents are fresh, yet Cerruti 1881 Amber’s juice is more sensual, said Giupponi.

The scent’s woody, ambery floral juice was created by Givaudan. Its top notes include violet leaves, green peppercorn and an ozonic accord; middle notes comprised clear jasmine, lavender and green of fresh roses, and bottom notes count amber, vetiver, musks and cedar wood among them.

Serge Manseau created the bottle, which stars in Ogilvy’s advertising campaign, shot by Guido Mocafico.

“What was really important for us was to focus on color and texture — we really zeroed in on branding,” explained d’Arminio.

The campaign will break in October books, as single and double pages. There will also be a poster campaign running from October through December, plus sampling, including 5-ml. miniatures and scent strips.

The fragrance will come in 50- and 100-ml. eau de toilette sprays, to retail for $36 and $50, respectively. At launch, there will also be a 50-ml. aftershave splash, for $36 and a 200-ml. allover body wash and shampoo, for $20.”

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