NEW YORK — This fall, Clinique is out to stop the aging process — or at least make skin appear that way.

This story first appeared in the June 28, 2002 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

The brand is launching two new items — Advanced Stop Signs Age Defending Serum and Dewy Smooth Anti-Aging Makeup SPF 15 — designed to make skin look younger. Advanced Stop Signs, which launches in August, is a next-generation formulation of the existing Stop Signs, which the new formula is replacing. It is designed to even skin tone by reducing the appearance of dark spots and discolorations, noted Susan Akkad, vice president of global treatment marketing for Clinique. “With this newly updated formula, we want to continue our anti-aging momentum and appeal to a broader group of consumers, including those in their 20s,” said Akkad. The original formulation, launched in February 1999, was the brand’s entry into the anti-aging category.

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Shirley Weinstein, senior vice president of product development worldwide for Clinique, added that the new formula introduces a biotechnologically derived yeast extract originally intended only for use in a skin-whitening line, Active White, that Clinique is marketing in Asia.

The formula also includes a host of other ingredients intended to deliver multiple benefits. They include a triple-lipid blend of cholesterol, barley/wheat extract and linoleic acid, which is said to help skin repair its moisture barrier; a skin-firming pentapeptide, which is intended to boost collagen production, and white birch extract and acetyl carnitine, which is said to boost the skin’s ability to repair itself and protect skin from environmental damage. Additionally, there is green tea extract and caffeine, which are included for their anti-irritant properties, Weinstein said.

The formula isn’t the only thing that has changed — the texture and price have also been updated. Two versions will be available: a serum, which will be available in Clinique’s full 2,200-door department and specialty store lineup, and a cream, which will be available in about 300 specialty store doors. Each retails for $35 for 1.7 ounce; the original was priced at $32.50. While neither executive would comment on sales goals, industry sources estimated that Advanced Stop Signs would do about $27 million at retail in its first year on-counter.

Advertising for Advanced Stop Signs will begin appearing in August magazines, including Vanity Fair, Martha Stewart Living, Vogue and Glamour. Sampling will also be a large part of the campaign; at least one million samples are planned, said Akkad. While she wouldn’t comment on the advertising and promotional budget, industry sources estimated that it would top $1 million.

Also coming this fall is Dewy Smooth Anti-Aging Makeup SPF 15, a moisturizing, full-coverage foundation intended for dry, aging skin. “This is the most comprehensive foundation offering we have for mature women,” said Julie Howard, vice president of global makeup marketing for Clinique. Although Clinique’s foundation lineup currently numbers 13 formulations — Dewy makes 14 — she said, “a big opportunity exists with this consumer — she is concerned with dry skin and aging, and she needs more coverage than we currently have in other foundations.”

The formula includes what Howard calls the “dewy-plex” complex — a cocktail of sodium hyaluronate and barley extract intended to moisturize skin — as well as a water-in-silicone formulation that is said to seal moisture into the skin. Titanium dioxide provides broad-spectrum sun protection, while optical diffusers like silica help to correct the appearance of lines and wrinkles, said Howard. “Many women shy away from foundation because it can settle in wrinkles and emphasize what they’re trying to hide,” she said. “That won’t happen with this formula.”

The foundation will be available in 10 shades and will retail for $19.50 for one ounce. While Howard wouldn’t comment on its projected sales, industry sources estimated that it would do about $16 million at retail in its first year on-counter.

Advertising will break in August magazines, including More Magazine, whose ads will include a BeautiSeal sampler. About one million samples are expected to be distributed from this ad, with an additional two million to be distributed at counter, said Howard. While she wouldn’t comment on the projected advertising spending, industry sources estimated that about $2 million would be spent on advertising and promotion for Dewy Smooth.”

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