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Cosmetic 360 Trade Show Spotlighted Innovation

The annual fair had a sustainability theme for its fifth session in Paris.

PARIS — Personalization, naturality, anti-pollution and biotech solutions were among the major beauty trends to emerge during the fifth annual session of the Cosmetic 360 trade show, which took place here last week.

The two-day fair, which ended on Oct. 17 and had a sustainability theme, was inaugurated by Ségolène Royal, president of the COP21 climate change conference. Cosmetic 360 counted more than 5,000 attendees from 70 countries, representing a 10 percent rise in footfall versus last year’s session.

One section highlighted beauty trends in the U.S., including indie brands, CBD and wellness.

Procoluide, a Madrid-based maker of private label hair- and skin-care products, was presenting what it billed to be “the first community co-creation system connecting your consumer at each step of your developments.” For the project, Procoluide teamed with My Beauty Community, a mobile application that uses a matching algorithm to connect users based on their interests, needs and beauty issues. Today the community counts 50,000 “beauty addicts” in France, according to Florent Pascal, general manager of Procoluide.

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“The idea was to say — voilà — between Procluide, a cosmetics subcontractor, and My Beauty Community there is a real complementarity,” he said, explaining that through the joint project it’s possible to include in a product or line’s entire development process — from the brief to the launch and entire lifecycle — beauty users’ feedback.

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That’s rather than people simply being asked to share thoughts on finished products. “We are the first to propose this type of B-to-B service to brands,” said Pascal. “We can help brands be much more consumer-centric.”

Also at Cosmetic 360 was Odyha, a new certified organic brand of shampoos and conditioners currently sold in pharmacies in France and beauty stories in some other European countries. Beginning in 2020, Odyha will launch 11 customizable serums for various hair types that can be mixed together in shampoo according to consumers’ needs, said Charles Dupont, a partner and head of business development at Odyha.

Present, too, was Syha, “synergistic, herbal cosmetics [made] by artificial intelligence,”according to Daniel Valtueña, president of the company, who partnered with biotech entrepreneur Pascal Meyer on the project.

“We have our own system of artificial intelligence that we used to discover the best plant combinations…to reach certain objectives — in this case, oxidative stress,” said Valtuena.

Syha is a line of organic cosmetics created to help fight against environmental (think blue light- or pollution-induced) skin aging.

French natural private-label color-cosmetics, skin-care and sun-care manufacturer ABC Texture was showcasing its Greenette collection of products certified as natural or organic. These included foundation, lipstick, skin- and sun-care with between 95 percent and 100 percent natural or organic ingredients in their formulation.

ABC Texture — as its name suggests — concentrates, as well, on offering new sensorial elements in its product range. Within Greenette, for instance, there’s the Bouncy sub-line with products having a soft, gummy texture that transforms into a fluid when applied on skin.

In keeping with Cosmetic 360’s sustainability theme, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton — specifically Dior Parfums, Guerlain, Sephora and Kenzo Parfums — sponsored a hackathon during which students were asked to bring ideas to the Sustainability Beauty Challenge. The winners were five students from IPAG Business School, who presented their project called Oashe Cosmetic.

The concept involved the liquidation of unsold stock by combining various branded fragrances to create limited-edition perfumes contained in recycled glass bottles on a half-yearly basis.

The Jury Favorite award was granted to students from Sup’Biotech for their idea entailing a smart floor that can generate energy.

The trade show also hosted awards in six categories for the most innovative brands present. These included:

• Gelyma, from France, in the Raw Materials category;

• Procoluide, from Spain, in the OEM, Formulation and Laboratory Equipment category;

• OxiProteomics, from France, in the Testing and Analysis category;

• GD Laser, from France, in the Packaging and Manufacturing Equipment category;

• VesCir, fromTaiwan, in the Retail and Brands category, and

• Christeyns, from France, in the Cosmetics Industry Support Functions category.