Color-blocked with golden glitter or framed by masks, eyes took center stage at numerous shows. For Dior, the house’s creative and image director for makeup Peter Philips explained that lashes were drawn on models’ eyelids with a loose hand. This look was “inspired by surreal movies like ‘The Red Shoes,’” he said. “And there are some great pictures of Romy Schneider, who did amazing elongated eyeliner.” Over at Jean Paul Gaultier, in a nod to Pierre Cardin, the beauty had a graphic take overall. There, Stéphane Marais drew almond shapes around peepers with liner.
Helping to counterbalance the natural beauty trend still strong at some shows was full-on lip color, often riffing on red. There was a newfangled hue at Chanel, which came from a mix of Rouge Allure number 182 and Rouge Coco Gloss number 794, both part of the house’s spring line. At Alexis Mabille, Lloyd Simmonds said the designer wanted models to appear like a combination of “19th-century princess and sort of gangsta.” Here, red lips lent sophistication and were juxtaposed with bejeweled nail art.
Will of the Wisp
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Gone are the days when coifs for couture had not a hair out of place — literally. Fly-aways floated down some spring catwalks. “For people who have wavy hair we’re really just brushing it out and doing this natural middle part,” said Holli Smith at Proenza Schouler, adding it “is a wilder, freer moment.” For his part, Laurent Philippon, working at Zuhair Murad, fashioned for models a low, loose deconstructed ponytail. “There’s a very loose, messy braid on one side only,” he said. “Why, I don’t know. It just looks good,” he continued with a laugh, adding: “There is no particular reference to it. We just thought it was the right thing to do.”