PARIS — Dior is targeting thirtysomethings with its new skin-care line, Capture Youth, which offers a personalized, anticipatory approach to delay the first signs of aging and is fronted by Cara Delevingne, WWD has learned.
For its creation, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned house took a cue from precision medicine — or customized, preemptive health care — according to Edouard Mauvais-Jarvis, environmental director and scientific communication director of Parfums Christian Dior.
Dior and the European Institute of Antioxidants worked together to apply a method, called PAOT Technologies, for measuring antioxidant and oxidative activity in biological tissue — crucial for the epidermis’ internal resistance process — to help develop a cosmetic product.
With the Université Pierre et Marie Curie, Dior Science found the epidermis’ intracellular antioxidant defense system, called glyoxalase, which controls skin’s ability to fight against visible signs of aging and gets weakened by time and environmental factors.
“Anticipation is the key,” said Mauvais-Jarvis, adding: “We have developed an extract of Florentine iris that is able to increase the activity of glyoxalase.”
The day cream central to the Capture Youth range contains a high concentration of the iris ingredient that works from the inside out with an “active antioxidation effect.” “It is complimented with five serums that will help personalize the approach,” he said, explaining these are for lifting, soothing, mattifying, plumping and acting on glow.
In the Capture Youth line, 85 percent of ingredients are from natural origins, including murunga plum, cotton peptides and polyphenols from green and white tea.
Which serum or serums (generally one or two are recommended) get chosen — and used either layered or mixed — depends on a skin’s characteristics. When it has some redness that could lead to spider veins later on, or if it has sebum that might lead to open pores, for instance.
“So if you can correct these aspects as early as possible, not only do you correct the source with the oxidation process, but you also adapt to [the] specificities of each individual,” said Mauvais-Jarvis.
Dior has developed an in-store diagnosis, so sales assistants can orient clients on their choice of serum. The house’s site has a brief questionnaire to help inform consumers, as well.
Whereas Dior’s Capture Totale is more for 40- and 50-year-olds looking to repair existing signs of aging, Capture Youth focuses on people in their 30s, a demographic that has yet to be addressed specifically by the house with antiage skin care and represents Dior’s core beauty target.
“The younger you start, the more chances you have to keep youthful features for a longer time,” said Mauvais-Jarvis.
Capture Youth will be launched primarily between Jan. 1 and Jan. 15, 2018, starting with markets such as the Americas, Japan, China and Russia.
Dior executives would not discuss projections for the line, which is being presented to the international press in Tokyo on Tuesday, but industry sources estimate it will generate first-year retail sales of 60 million euros.
Capture Youth’s advertising campaign, featuring Delevingne, was lensed by Cass Bird and will appear in print and film iterations.
In France, the 50-ml. Age-Delay Advanced Cream will retail for 95.50 euros, while the 30-ml. Plump Filler, Matte Maximizer, Glow Booster, Redness Soother and Lift Sculptor serums are to also go for 95.50 euros each.
Packaging was eco-designed for the products, which can be used daily or as an intensive treatment.