Dr. Zenovia Skin-Care

Sephora has taken its exclusive brand partnerships to clinical skin care with the launch of Dr. Zenovia Skincare, the eponymous line of clinical skin-care products by dermatologist Zenovia Gabriel, M.D.

Dr. Zenovia Skincare, which launches this month on the dermatologist’s web site and in Sephora next month, is centered around hormonal dermatology and has two collections, one for antiaging and one for acne. The brand’s debut 12 products range in price from $25 to $79, and industry sources estimate $10 million in retail sales for its first year on the market.

Although the brand features recognizable active ingredients like vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and benzoyl peroxide, its proprietary REG-ulate 360 Complex includes phytoestrogen to aim to locally balance hormone levels in skin. That being said, Gabriel reiterated that the complex ensures no systemic hormonal changes as a result of the complex, and that the line can be used by any gender.

For Gabriel, who has a dermatology practice in Newport Beach, Calif., there has always been a market white space in products that effectively address internal issues topically. “Nobody is really addressing the hormonal impact of skin at the various stages of lives, like puberty, pregnancy, perimenopause and menopause, and nobody is addressing hormones at the skin level,” she said.

“The [phytoestrogen] only affects you locally, not systemically. That’s why I call it essential: it’s for everyone. Both males and females have a cocktail of hormones in the body, and we all have estrogen, testosterone, progesterone and cortisol,” she said. “One of the things we see is the amount of collagen in your skin is directly related to your estrogen levels.”

The brand’s launch comes on the heels of what’s been a rough year for beauty, though skin care has been an industry bright spot. According to The NPD Group, skin-care sales fell 18 percent in the second quarter (while beauty overall was down 36 percent). Sales in the category were also the highest in the market at $1.1 billion.

Gabriel’s products include Bakuchiol Hydrating Cleanser, Vitamin C Brightening Toner, Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Serum, Vitamin C Brightening Moisturizer SPF 30, Peptide + Ceramide Repairing Moisturizer, Retinol Recovery Eye Cream, Inflam-Aging Night Repair Treatment, 10 percent Benzoyl Peroxide Acne Cleanser, 10 percent Glycolic Acne Peel Pads, 5 percent Benzoyl Peroxide Acne Spot Treatment, Aloe Vera Blemish Soothing Moisturizer and Advanced Retinol Night Repair Treatment.

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