Last year, beauty sales in the food, drug and mass channel gained just 3 percent to $21.2 billion, according to Symphony IRI Group. At Target, however, the picture was markedly rosier. There, beauty outpaced the market, with some categories, like color cosmetics, doubling the gains of the overall market. Target’s success in makeup is notable, because the business model it created for the category—driven by newness, innovation and an influx of exclusive and upscale brands—is one it hopes to replicate as the retailer looks to rejuvenate its skin-care business and gobble up market share across all categories. Recently, WWD’s executive editor of beauty, Pete Born, flew out to Chicago to tour one of Target’s marquee beauty stores with José Barra, the retailer’s senior vice president, merchandising, of health and beauty. From sales associates, called concierges, to Spanish-language signage, Born found that the future is definitely not big- box business as usual. “We have pushed,” Barra says. “We are a company that’s going to take risks and we’re going to push the boundaries to the extent that we can.” Find out how in “The Value of Innovation.”
Amazon is no stranger to pushing boundaries, as those in businesses such as books, music and electronics can no doubt attest. Now, the e-commerce giant has turned its sights to beauty—for better or for worse. Yes, the Internet is retail’s fastest growing channel and Amazon’s number of active customers is a staggering 188 million. But the numbers aren’t enough to sway many brands, especially the established luxe lines that Amazon covets most, as I discovered when reporting “Ready or Not.” The implications for our industry are enormous, and the issues raised many.
Doubtless Jean-Jacques Lebel is keeping close tabs on Amazon’s progress. As the vice president and managing director of L’Oréal’s consumer products division, Lebel oversees the biggest branch of the world’s largest beauty company, the division spearheading the audacious corporate goal of attracting one billion new consumers worldwide. Jennifer Weil, our European beauty editor, recently sat down for a wide-ranging talk with the executive to find out how he plans to do just that. You can read about his strategy in “Man of the World.”
This marks WWD Beauty Inc’s third annual retail issue, and once again, we’ve combed the world to bring you the most innovative new retail formats that have opened in the past year. While the stores that are featured this year range from a boutique that reinvents how tea is sold to an eco-centric café-cum- clothing boutique, a common theme does emerge: The newest stores are as much about community as they are about commerce. Take a tour in “The Age of Experience.” I’d love to hear your views on the many emerging formats most impacting beauty—online or off. E-mail me at jenny_fine@ fairchildfashion.com.
6 Key Points From This Issue
1. U.S.A.!: Prestige sales will stay strong in North America for the foreseeable future, despite economic uncertainty.
2. BIG-BOX MOXIE: Target’s emphasis on newness and innovation is unwavering as it looks to gain market share.
3. THE AMAZON EFFECT: As the e-commerce giant sets its sights on beauty, brands big and small are grappling with the right approach.
4. ALL TOGETHER NOW: Community combines with commerce in the coolest new stores.
5. BACK IN BLACK: Strong, graphic eyes rimmed in inky black liner were all the rage at the New York fall collections.
6. WORLD VIEW: From men’s skin care in Asia to nails in the U.S., targeted categories will be key to global growth.
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)
Breaking News: @hedislimane joins @celine as its new artistic, creative and image director. One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Slimane is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week. It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation – and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade – as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, between 2012 and 2016 – all the while maintaining a close relationship with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
“Personally I believe the Eighties have been the richest and more vivacious period for international fashion,” Giorgio Armani said when asked what his favorite decade of fashion is. It was a moment of disruption and experimentation and only thinking back to the first years of that decade is always an emotion for me, for what they have meant to me and my work.” The influence is clear in @giorgioarmani spring 2018 collection, pictured here, which was full of bright colors and unexpected prints. Read more about which decades designers loved most on WWD.com #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
For Lady Gaga’s only Italian show on her “Joanne World Tour,” the singer wore a range of @versace_official outfits. The standout piece: this custom-made bodysuit inspired by the brand’s spring 2018 collection. #wwdfashion (RG: @ladygaga)
@_camillaruth_ is expanding on the wellness-craze concept with @westbourne – a new NYC restaurant that’s both a healthy-minded café as well as a business that gives back to the community. Marcus works with the Robin Hood foundation to give back to The Door, a non-profit providing youth development services, and also hires employees through The Door. Read our full interview with Marcus on giving back through food on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)