For New York Fashion Week’s first go online, hair and makeup artist focalized on fantasy and escapism. From the floral styles at Rodarte and Chromat to the beach-ready minimalism at Jason Wu, the statement was about getting out from behind the screen.
“The whole idea is we can’t really go on vacation, so Jason brought the vacation to us, and so we wanted to keep the girls fresh,” said Erin Parsons, makeup artist for Jason Wu’s spring 2021 presentation and lead makeup artist for Maybelline New York. The show was inspired by Tulum, Wu’s “second home.” Parsons also mentioned blotting models’ faces with faux freckles and mimicking light sunburns from long beach days. “If you’re on vacation, you normally don’t do much makeup,” she added.
The hair, too, went the way of the waves. “There was a causal element grounding the look in general and the type of woman Jason Wu is normally about,” said the show’s lead stylist, Holli Smith. Smith let the models’ preexisting cuts shine through, with a little volume mist from äz Craft Luxury Haircare.
Both Smith and Parsons worked IRL and wore masks, as did the models, which posed a few issues. “We were thinking about the hair and would the lines of the mask mess up what we were doing. That conversation was really important for makeup, there was a freckle-y enhancement on the face,” Smith said. “When you put the mask onto that, you have to use different products.”
Florals also saw a resurgence, with flowers adorning the heads and faces of models at Chromat, Anna Sui and Rodarte. “I had to create a texture that was strong and soft at the same time,” said hair tylist Rachel Lee of her work on Rodarte collection, using Ghd tools. “I kicked the nozzle off of the hairdryer and gave the hair a bit of a rough tease, and had that be the toughness, and let all the florals and headpieces be the softness and femininity.”
For Anna Sui, makeup maven Pat McGrath spent her time behind the scenes painting flowers on models’ faces: those that weren’t hidden behind masks, that is. While hair was also laden with flora and fauna, MAC Cosmetics senior national artist Fatima Smith also gave eyelids colorful accents and ombré shadows. Here, see a few of the beauty looks from New York Fashion Week.
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