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Striking Eye Makeup for Couture Spring 2022 Displays

From smoky looks to elongated cat eyes and a riot of glitter, peepers were bold and beautiful this season.

Eye makeup was bold and beautiful at the most recent couture displays, for spring 2022, in Paris.

At Dior, Peter Philips, the house’s creative and image director of makeup, swept white eyeliner under models’ peepers. “It’s a take on the eyeliner that I’ve done a few times already for the Dior show,” he said. “We did it in white just to give it a twist and also because it feels lighter. The collection is a bit more fluid, less graphic.”

White eyeliner is also luminous, said Philips, who explained Dior’s artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to keep a monotone look.

Makeup artist Pat McGrath created a graphic smoky eye for many of the models walking the Schiaparelli show. The smoked-out lash lines and eyes rimmed in black with diffused edges served as a foil to the fashion’s sculptural designs. One model appeared to have supersized lower lashes made of sparkling silver paillettes.

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Over at Valentino, McGrath conjured up an elongated version of a classic cat eye. In some instances, that was drawn on with liquid liner and pencil, while for other models, the take was more extreme as she embellished the shape with a feather fastened on the outer corner of models’ eyes.

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Makeup artist Lloyd Simmonds took a cue from Alexis Mabille fashion for the designer’s eponymous brand. “When Alexis showed me the collection, I immediately thought that we should emphasize the eyes to coordinate with all the decorative structural details and couture architecture of the clothes — but in a new, lighter way,” said Simmonds.

“I wanted to keep it graphic and minimal, but still opulent, so I replaced the more traditional black eyeliner with two tones of gold liner that we custom-made — a darker tone close to the lash line and a lighter one for the crease of the eye,” he continued. “To help shape the eyes, we used a lot of black mascara on the upper lashes.”

Makeup artist Yulia Tochilova took a cue from the mood board for Ulyana Sergeenko’s collection as well as the designer’s feedback.

“I particularly liked the vintage images of women at the pool, and thought it would be brilliant to create an effect of a wet glimmer on the face and skin, as if she just got out of the pool, with the water trickling onto the eyes,” said Tochilova, who gave a burst of glitter around models’ eyes, noses and foreheads.

“It is always easier to create and envision when there is trust and freedom. You begin with a broad concept, and then intuition takes over when working on the physical form — the size, color and shape of the glitter,” she said. “The models themselves inspire particular shapes, like the ‘masks’ in this project.”

Eyes were also a focus at Chanel, Stéphane Rolland, RVDK Ronald van der Kemp, Rami Kadi and Imane Ayissi.

For more, see:

Spring 2022 Couture Trend: Clean Lines

Dior Couture Spring 2022

Chanel Couture Spring 2022