The eyes had it on the recent Paris catwalks displaying fall 2022 women’s ready-to-wear collections.
The Dior beauty look was inspired by Mariella Bettineschi’s artwork, which has a focus on peepers, according to Peter Phillips, the house’s creative and image director of makeup. So he added a silver touch to the inside corners of models’ eyes using Dior’s Custom Eye Palette from the brand’s Backstage line.
For Lutz Huelle, makeup artist Jessie Lefler, working with MAC Cosmetics, said: “Lutz had sent me two inspiration pictures — one quite graphic and black, and one full [of] silver glitter.” She chose to mix both elements to create a different look for each model in order to suit specific eye shape and overall features.
“It reminded me of the shapes of the Punk scene makeup, but the glitter made it more fun and glamorous,” continued Lefler. “It was a beautiful combination of strength and femininity.”
Over at Koché, makeup artist Cécile Paravina nodded to the opulent interiors of the Westin Paris — Vendôme hotel, location of the brand’s show.
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“I kept skin matte and minimal in order to keep the focus solely on the rhinestones and piercing details of the look,” she explained.
In one instance, the fake gems were on par with a model’s eyes, on either side of his nose. In another, they jutted off from eyes’ outer corners.
“The lip and eye arrangements of rhinestones are essentially a twist on a classic lip or eyeliner look,” said Paravina.
An emphasis on eyes this season was also apparent on runways for brands such as Ottolinger, Rochas, Lanvin and Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
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