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Formulas Drive Innovation at MakeUp in Paris

Multipurpose products and applicators were also at the forefront.

PARIS — Proof of the dynamism of the makeup category, the MakeUp in Paris trade show, which ran from June 9 to 10 at the Carrousel du Louvre here, saw a 12.7 percent increase in visitor numbers to 3,508 this session.

One hundred and fifty-one exhibitors participated, a 19.8 percent increase year-over-year, including 36 newcomers. Exhibitors showcased their innovations in packaging, formulation and applicator development.

New-generation formulas, new gestures and multipurpose products were innovation drivers for many exhibitors. Supplier Albéa presented a two-in-one mascara brush suitable for liquid formulas, with a tip that doubled as an eyeliner applicator, as well as the first standard version of its Baystick-guided mechanism for more fluid lipstick formulas and a standard range of pan-stick packaging to cater to the contouring and strobing market. Groupe Pochet’s Qualipac division, meanwhile, presented a range of makeup packs featuring single-handed opening systems, in line with the selfie trend.

Italian supplier Eurovetrocap marked its entry into the makeup market with newly created subsidiary Euromakeup.

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“Eurovetrocap wanted to show its capabilities in makeup,” explained Marco Roda, sales manager at Euromakeup, whose innovations included Beautilock, a patented airtight compact for solvent and water-based formulas.

Applicators were also strongly present, with suppliers focusing more on brushes, as demand for tools is fueled by online tutorials, pushing brands to create their own offer. France’s Cosmogen presented a range of on-the-go brushes that twist to adapt to different applications, changing the shape of the bristles.

“With a single brush, you can cover all the different areas of the face,” explained Cosmogen marketing manager for brushes Charlotte Clabaux. Topline Products by Texen, for its part, showed off bespoke brushes recently created for Revlon.

In formulation, South Korean supplier Coson presented Pudding Tint, a liquid lip gloss with a memory-form texture and a jelly-like feel, as well as 4D Eyeshadow, a no-bake, no-wax, oil-based, jelly-like formula in a range of shimmering shades.

French company Alkos presented Moonlight Kiss Fluo lipsticks, a range of products that glow under UV light, which are proving popular with brands, according to a company spokeswoman.

Both Coson’s and Alkos’ products featured on this year’s Innovation Tree, which highlighted novelties at the entrance of the show. Some 28 products were selected among 75 submitted by exhibitors this session.

The trend toward a full-service offer was also apparent, with LF Beauty highlighting a new soap-free shaving formula shown in a squeeze tube topped with a removable shaving brush. The refillable concept was also available for women as a cleanser.

“We have the advantage of being able to bring combined innovation with formulation development and packaging development from our packaging team,” said LF Beauty’s general manager of R&D Cyril Lemoine.

Other highlights at the event included a new space showcasing digital innovations. Exhibitors here included LF Beauty, which presented its digital point-of-sale display that registers when a product is picked up from it and plays an associated video. The installation also gathers data on which products attract the most consumers and collates it with sales information.

A newcomer to the beauty space, La Nail Revolution presented a machine that develops personalized nail polish formulas to order, which can be matched to an item of clothing, for example, thanks to a specially developed sensor. The machine, co-developed by French company Provaine and Swiss firm Colorix, will be rented out to high-traffic beauty salons, but there was also strong interest from brands at the show. The two firms have created an online app as well, through which consumers can order their color either for home delivery or for preparation in the salon of their choice.

“We hope it could become the Nespresso of nail polish,” said Damien Blanchy, president of Provaine.

Despite the uptick in visitor numbers, many exhibitors at MakeUp in Paris said they felt traffic had been slower than in previous sessions.

“We haven’t had enough visits,” commented Euromakeup’s Roda, a sentiment mirrored by others. “I think the formulators have seen more visitors than the packagers.”