Ever the iconoclast, makeup artist Tom Pecheux knew exactly the look he wanted to create for the spring Derek Lam collection immediately after seeing the easygoing clothes. “Orange,” he recounts. “On the eyes.” Pecheux, who is Estée Lauder’s creative makeup director, improvised for the show, mixing an orange lip liner with a coral lipstick to get the shade he was after, then using it as a liner on the upper eyelids. Lauder global brand president Jane Hudis was so taken with the look that she immediately ordered the labs to re-create it in an eye product (to be available at retail in April). Pecheux wasn’t the only makeup artist with a tangerine dream—the color dominates for lipstick, glosses and nails. Here, some of the season’s brightest offerings.