Parfums de Marly in the Printemps.

PARIS — Niche French fragrance label Parfums de Marly is galloping ahead with a new retail identity at the Printemps department store here, while expanding its geographic reach and broadening its product portfolio.

The privately held fragrance label — which was started in 2010 by Julien Sprecher and inspired by Louis XV, his passion for horses and the Marly castle dedicated to their well-being — is slated to open a 165-square-foot shops-in-shop in Printemps’ new beauty department midmonth.

“We felt that we needed to refresh and upgrade our retail image — and also to challenge it,” Julien Sausset, chief executive officer of the Sprecher Berrier Group of Companies, the parent of Parfums de Marly, told WWD.

Architect Hubert de Malherbe was brought in to design the new concept, saying: “It will be displaying our products in a sort of Haussmannian apartment…a bit more traditional than we had in the previous concepts,” Sausset said. “There’s something a bit more Parisian.”

The decor will be a mix of old and new elements, with fragrances lining a streamlined, modern table, which is juxtaposed with a gilded mirror, for instance.

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Sausset said a lot of other changes have been taking place for the brand in the recent past. For one, it entered the U.S. market last year via more than 50 Nordstrom sales points and six Bloomingdale’s doors. Some 18 months ago, the brand debuted its first U.S. boutique, in New York’s Meatpacking District, and its first Paris shop, on the Rue Cambon. More recently, Parfums de Marly opened in Selfridges in London, where it already had a presence in Harrods.

The design of the label’s Printemps shop will serve as a template for all upgraded and new stores, including an extension of its unit in the Dubai Mall.

Parfums de Marly in Printemps

Parfums de Marly in Printemps.  Malherbe Paris

Parfums de Marly is currently sold through more than 700 doors in 48 countries, with Turkey among the newest markets, and Scandinavia, Mexico and Asia upcoming.

The brand’s largest zone today sales-wise is the Gulf Cooperation Council where expansion has been rapid, according to Sausset.

Parfums de Marly has 21 fragrances in its portfolio, of which 16 are unisex. Delina, a fruity, floral, musky scent, is the latest for women. “We never had a launch like this,” said Sausset. “We sold more than 80 pieces over the first weekend at Selfridges in London [where it came out earlier this year].”

The executive said another one of the company’s focuses is having more feminine juices.

In its line, the brand also counts five scented candles and some accessories, such as silk scarves and bracelets. Its e-commerce site has just been reworked and its digital team is being reinforced.

Such developments have borne fruit. While company executives would not discuss sales numbers, industry sources estimate Parfums de Marly generates about 50 million euros in retail sales annually.

When asked whether the brand could be open to being acquired, as have a host of other niche fragrance labels, Sausset said: “We are a brand that is doing well, which has very [healthy] growth and also fundamentals in terms of business. So no, that’s not our intention — at least in the short-term.”

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