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Fresh Mouth: Call it nude, call it caramel, call it beige or just call it lip balm. Lips contributed to the ubiquitous natural look at Costume National, Chanel, Rochas, Lanvin and Yves Saint Laurent.

Topographic Hair: Whether styled with crimping irons, corn-row aftermath or teased to the max, hair rarely went straight. Alexander McQueen, Yohji Yamamoto and Christian Dior were especially wild.

They Get Paid for This?: The lack of obvious makeup at Stella McCartney, Chloé and even John Galliano led one to wonder whether the makeup artists chose to take the week off. Of course not! It takes time, effort and talent to made a nude face beautiful.

They Get Paid for That?: Hair was “natural and fresh” (translation: worn down, finger-combed, with an occasional random clip or twist) just about everywhere, including Chanel, Chloé, some of Dior and all of Louis Vuitton. But undone looks aren’t as easy to create as they seem (see previous item).

Up Swing: When hair was up, it was modern, gorgeous, original — in particular, thick braids at Costume National, Grace Kelly twists at Rochas, flower-like buns at YSL and sophisticated ponies at Valentino.

Silliest Accessory of the Week: Eugene Souleiman’s headbands made from balloons slipped into bright-colored Fogal stockings made the girls look more like they were attending a five-year-old’s birthday party than walking in a Celine fashion show.

The Cleverest: James Kaliardos’ use of thread as eyeliner at Rochas and Luigi Morenu’s ribbons of hair at Viktor & Rolf.

Most Beautiful: McGrath’s shimmery bronze eyes and Orlando’s sophisticated ponytails, both at Valentino.

M.I.A.: No-shows of the week included liquid eyeliner, red lipstick, colored eye shadow, scissors and flatirons.

“In” (Again): Sales should soar in the foundation, clear lip gloss, ponytail elastics and brown and beige makeup categories.

This story first appeared in the October 12, 2004 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.