Eyes were the beauty focus at many a fashion brand’s virtual presentation for the Paris and Milan fall 2021 collections.
“We went for a beautiful, smoky eye — kind of dark,” said Peter Philips, Dior’s creative and image director for makeup, who eschewed tradition by creating an elongated horizontal, rather than a round, smoky shape. “It’s not seductive eye makeup. It’s very strong…without becoming Gothic.”
For the conceptual look he first framed peepers with the Diorshow 24H Stylo in a thick line that was blended, then used a matte black hue, called Black Bow, from the upcoming Mono Couleur Couture collection.
At Versace, Pat McGrath opted for maximalist, bold eyeliners in vibrant magenta and electric blue. The precise, graphic line of the extended wing shape she created conveyed a confident, strong look and was inspired by the fashion collection’s rich fabrics and hues. Using her namesake brand’s products, McGrath intensified the colored shapes with iridescent effects and defined top lash lines with a black eye pencil.
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For Giambattista Valli, the designer “wanted to have more of an artistic feel for the makeup, instead of ‘just’ a beauty look,” explained Hélène Vasnier, who ringed some models’ eyes with colors such as yellow or purple and black. “The circles are inspired by historical ceilings he shot in Rome, which we wanted to explore for the show.
“The idea was to do a visually ‘loud’ look on a few of the girls in order to add contrast and rhythm to the collection,” she continued. “Mostly, I was inspired by pansy flowers — using just a few colors, all matte, but always contrasted with a bright pigment that enhance the look.”
Luciano Chiarello said for No. 21: “I didn’t want the eyes to be too glamorous or to have a glam makeup in general. I was interested in bringing out character through a very defined cut of the eye and a straight line on the eyelid, stretched outwards and with a sort of smoky effect that left transparencies in the center.”
Bold eyes also appeared at the likes of Chanel, Givenchy, Erdem, Courrèges, Max Mara, Koché, Vivienne Westwood, Dice Kayek, Pronounce, Huishan Zhang and Matty Bovan.
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