New York Spring 2015 Collections: Novel Beauty Techniques

UNPREDICTABLE PAIRINGS

Makeup artists mixed it up backstage this season by applying rouge to the lips and lip gloss to the eyelids. At Thakoon, Diane Kendal for Nars Cosmetics used a dusty pink blush on the lips. Referring to the sheen on the eyes, Kabuki, who worked with MAC Cosmetics at Zac Posen, said, “It’s very healthy skin, almost as if she was on vacation, [or even] an after-sex glow.”

This story first appeared in the September 12, 2014 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

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THE POWER OF ONE

Unlike in seasons past, when hairstylists used a half-dozen products or more to create a look,
spring was all about minimalism. To fashion sleek hair backstage at Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Victoria Beckham, all stylists needed was holding spray. “There’s a pure modernity to the whole thing,” said Guido Palau of his deep side part at Victoria Beckham. “It’s nonchalant hair. Designers try to make it look like we’re not trying too hard.”

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IN THE BUFF

Backstage, nail artists showed a fresh take on the bare nail trend. At the J.Mendel, Delpozo and Rodarte shows, manicurists applied a matte topcoat directly to the nail or on top of a layer of clear polish, sometimes layering on metallics and pastels. Of her all-matte nail look at J.Mendel, manicurist Miss Pop said, “A matte topcoat [on bare nails] is the new nude. It brings out all [the] blush in your nail bed.”