MILAN — Graphic eyes, natural skin and ponytails. When it comes to Milan Fashion Week, these three beauty trends defined the look.
Makeup artists worked on finding new colors. “We mixed different ranges of colors to get to a petrol, blue-green hue which could match the collection,” said Peter Philips backstage at Fendi “and then we shaped a very graphic eye to get a strong, bold effect.”
Graphic eyes that matched graphic hair were seen at Giorgio Armani, but makeup artist Linda Cantello went further. “We wanted to do something more free” she explained, speaking about how she studied the look with Giorgio Armani. The look was about black-and-white shadows and highlights, and the makeup was applied as if it were a painting. “My very personal opinion is that now there are so many tutorials online about makeup and people are becoming intimidated,” Cantello said. But the point is that “makeup is something they should be free to do, it doesn’t have to be perfect.” A strong black line defined the eyes with shadows and white flashes of light, but this contrast was respectful of each girl’s personality, so that the end result was diversified.
Individualism was at the core of Marni’s beauty look too.”We wanted all the girls to have bold colorblocking,” such as blue, baby blue and green. The color was then dabbed as if the makeup was applied with one’s fingers in an elongated shape to highlight each girl’s personal look.
Prada and Moschino played on this bold effect by creating a boy-or-a-girl kind of game. “A girl or a boy? It doesn’t matter, what matters is that you can be whoever you want” — this is how makeup artist Tom Pecheux described the philosophy behind his beauty look at Moschino: “I love the idea today that we are very open-minded.”
In contrast, skin was always kept very natural. To highlight it, models usually wore just a touch of foundation and contour only when needed.
Lips and nails were very often kept neutral. The exception? Moschino, where delicate beehives were drawn over a nude nail.
Hairstyles followed the same natural mood. At Alberta Ferretti, Guido Palau created a little messy, casual yet very sophisticated effect by softening hair around the face and then twisting it in ponytails.
Hair was tight on the back, playing on the idea of wet hair at Marni. “It’s as if the girls just stepped out of the water,” hairstylist Duffy explained of the models’ hair kept supershiny, superwet-looking, in a shape “that resembles a punky take on the Fifties.”
For More on Spring 2018 Makeup, Hair and Beauty Looks, See: