Thom Browne’s fall collection drew inspiration from “The Little Prince,” and the otherworldly beauty looks followed suit.
“There are a lot of characters in the show,” said James Pecis, the mastermind behind the hair sculptures, for Oribe. Given the amount of extra hair needed, planning started weeks in advance. “Two weeks ahead or more, we get the ball rolling and start sending sketches. Our test was two days before the show.”
For one of the show’s characters, the snake, Pecis pulled the hair into two ponytails, then braiding them before coating with gel. Four male models played the roses, with long gelled sheets of hair wrapped lengthwise around the crowns of their heads. “It’s a bit more conceptual. Thom likes it not to be too literal,” Pecis said. “It’s more of a Bauhaus rose.”
The planet-inspired looks took inspiration from Browne’s mom — pictured in the ’50s with a slight bouffant, Pecis said — molding hair into oblong spheres and wrapping them with concentric rings. “Those rings are made of hair as well,” he said, adding that the character of the fox also took cues from retro hairstyles.
Wig wraps also took more than 48 different models, all of whom had different variations. “We used a lot of Superfine Hairspray and some gel,” Pecis said. “They have different headpieces that go around their heads.”
Pecis started ideating the looks weeks ago with Isamaya Ffrench who, representing MAC Cosmetics, printed stars and metallic accents on models’ faces. Some of the characters, namely the snake and the elephant, had more personalized and dramatic eye makeup sweeping up to the hairline.
“Especially in New York for the shows, everyone always asks, ‘How does this translate to the woman on the street?’ And it doesn’t, it totally doesn’t,” Pecis said. “But it’s fun. From what I’ve seen from the shows, there are a lot of animals and weird s–t going on. It doesn’t have to be serious.”