Paco Rabanne, Lutz Huelle and Altuzarra

WET HEADS: High-shine hair paraded down many a catwalk in Paris this season.
Eugene Souleiman said he created a side part and ponytail for models at the Stella McCartney show, where they were meant to look like they had just gotten out of the shower.

Stella McCartney and Haider Ackermann

Stella McCartney and Haider Ackermann  Vanni Bassetti/WWD; Kuba Dabrowski/WWD

At Haider Ackermann, Duffy said: “We’re essentially painting on what from the front will look like a lacquered hairband. That’s essentially what we want the top three-quarters of the hair to look like.” Models’ remaining tresses were tucked into their collars. The wet look was also spotted at Cyclas, Olivier Theyskens, Uma Wang, Maison Margiela and Rochas.

Cyclas, Maison Margiela and Uma Wang

Cyclas, Maison Margiela and Uma Wang  Dominique Maitre/WWD; Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD

RED ON PEEPERS: “Inspiration for the makeup is always first of all [Haider Ackermann’s] collection,” Inge Grognard said backstage before the designer’s show. She explained also for this season a color had to be sharp. “I was thinking about an eyeliner, but not an eyeliner with a flip,” Grognard said.

Backstage at Haider Ackermann RTW Fall 2019, photographed in Paris on March 2, 2019.

Haider Ackermann  Delphine Achard/WWD

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“It’s an eyeliner like the cut of a knife in the corner of the eye. There will be a few girls that have the deep red.” Red hues popped up on peepers at other shows, too, including Leonard, Valentino and Guy Laroche.

Leonard Paris, Valentino and Guy Laroche

Leonard Paris, Valentino and Guy Laroche  Dominique Maitre/WWD; Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

SILVER SHEEN: For the Giambattista Valli show, Val Garland said the makeup look she created was a cross between Guy Bourdin and the movie “Fame.” In a nod to the latter, she gave 11 models a chromatic eye.

Koché, Giambattista Valli and Anais Jourden

Koché, Giambattista Valli and Anais Jourden  Kuba Dabrowski/WWD; Delphine Achard/WWD; Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

“We’re using black, white, silver and a little bit of glitter,” she explained. Garland drew a curvy white line over models’ lids and a black liner under their lower lids. Below that was affixed a black, white and gray strip with a sparkly silver fringe, “like a visor,” Garland said. “It made [the look] more futuristic and less delicately eyelash-y.” Silver hues were used around eyes at Koché and Anaïs Jourden, too.

BLACK-ACCENTED EYES: Models’ eyes were outlined in black at numerous shows in Paris this season.

Paco Rabanne, Lutz Huelle and Altuzarra

Paco Rabanne, Lutz Huelle and Altuzarra  Delphine Achard/WWD; Kuba Dabrowski/WWD; Vanni Bassetti/WWD

At Paco Rabanne, Pat McGrath was in part inspired by Edie Sedgwick, and to channel that look she used McGrath Labs’ PermaGel Ultra Glide Eye Pencil and Perma PrecisionLiquid Eyeliner in extreme black, plus FetishEyes Mascara on models’ top and bottom lashes. Black-rimmed eyes were also apparent at Lutz Huelle and Altuzarra.

WILL O’ THE WISP: Guido Palau created a “boyish kind of ponytail” for the Givenchy show. He crafted a deep side part on models’ heads, so their hair fell over their eyebrows. The hairstylist planned to pull some strands out right before models hit the catwalk, so they looked a bit disheveled. “There’s a masculine-feminine kind of vibe,” he said. “It’s got a boyish strength, [but] it’s still very beautiful and luxe.” Wisps wafted down runways at other shows, such as Akris, Each Other, Valentino and Comme des Garçons.

Akris, Valentino and Givenchy

Akris, Valentino and Givenchy  Vanni Bassetti/WWD; Giovanni Giannoni/WWD; Delphine Achard/WWD


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